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A 30"-tall wall corner cabinet with a pie-cut door pair, sized to hang alongside standard wall cabinets and finished with a real hardwood face frame.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shelves and top/bottom | 4 | 3/4" × 22 3/4" × 22 3/4" | 3/4" plywood (22-3/4" ripped strip) | ☐ |
| Sides | 2 | 3/4" × 11 3/4" × 30" | 3/4" plywood (11-3/4" ripped strip) | ☐ |
| Back support cleat | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 30" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Hanging cleats Longest-point measurement; one end cut at a 45° bevel. Add more under the other fixed shelves for heavier loads. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 21" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Backs | 2 | 1/4" × 22" × 30" | 1/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Face frame stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 30" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame top rail | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 10 1/2" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame bottom rail | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9 3/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, ripped into a 22-3/4" strip and an 11-3/4" strip, 8 ft each The leftover width from the 11-3/4" strip is enough for another wall cabinet if you're building more than one. | 1 sheet | ☐ |
| 1/4" plywood, half sheet, for the backs | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft, matching hardwood species | 2 each | ☐ |
| 1x3 board, 30", matching hardwood species | 1 each | ☐ |
| Concealed euro-style hinges, 1-1/4" overlay face frame | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pie-cut hinges, for joining the two doors | 2 each | ☐ |
| Screws, for hanging and attaching to neighboring cabinets | 20 each | ☐ |
| Cabinet doors or door-building materials | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 3/4" and 1-1/4" | 30 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 4 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Circular Saw. Materials: 3/4" plywood, ripped into a 22-3/4" strip and an 11-3/4" strip, 8 ft each
Cut all your shelves and sides as shown in your reference diagram from the two ripped plywood strips.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 3/4" plywood, ripped into a 22-3/4" strip and an 11-3/4" strip, 8 ft each, Pocket-hole screws, 3/4" and 1-1/4"
Drill pocket holes in all the shelves and sides as shown in your diagram, then attach the shelves to the sides.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level. Materials: 1x3 board, 30", matching hardwood species, Wood glue
Attach the 1x3 back cleat to the back of the cabinet, keeping the shelves level. Countersink the screws and use glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft, matching hardwood species, Pocket-hole screws, 3/4" and 1-1/4", Wood glue
These cleats are for hanging the cabinet later. For heavier loads, add more cleats under the remaining fixed shelves rather than relying on just these two. Attach with glue and screws — 3/4" pocket holes on the back side work well here.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft, matching hardwood species, Pocket-hole screws, 3/4" and 1-1/4", Wood glue
Build the face frame as its own assembly, with hidden 3/4" pocket holes on the back side. Attach it to the carcass using the pocket holes you predrilled in step 2.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Cabinet doors or door-building materials
For standard full-overlay doors with a 1/2" reveal between doors, size your doors as shown in your reference. When hanging, adjust so 1/4" of the face frame shows on the ends and 1/2" shows on the top and bottom.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Pie-cut hinges, for joining the two doors
Use the pie-cut hinges to join the two doors together so they swing open as a pair.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Concealed euro-style hinges, 1-1/4" overlay face frame
Install the concealed euro-style hinges to hang the door pair on the cabinet. A 1-1/4" overlay face-frame concealed hinge is the right choice for this face frame.