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A corner wall cabinet earns its keep by not wasting the corner — this one uses a pie-cut door pair, hinged to each other as well as to the cabinet, so both doors swing open together and give you full access to a space that would otherwise be an awkward reach-in. The face frame is built as its own separate assembly, with its pocket holes hidden on the back side, then attached to the carcass through the same holes you predrilled earlier — building it separately keeps the joinery clean and lets you dial in the door reveals before anything is hung.
Build the face frame and doors from a hardwood species that matches your other cabinets — this is the one piece a mismatched wood grain would be most obvious on, sitting right at eye level in the corner of the room. The hanging cleats carry real cabinet weight, so if you're loading this with heavy dishware, add cleats under the other fixed shelves too, not just the two called for here.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, ripped into a 22-3/4" strip and an 11-3/4" strip, 8 ft eachThe leftover width from the 11-3/4" strip is enough for another wall cabinet if you're building more than one. | 1 sheet |
| 1/4" plywood, half sheet, for the backs | 1 each |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft, matching hardwood species | 2 each |
| 1x3 board, 30", matching hardwood species | 1 each |
| Concealed euro-style hinges, 1-1/4" overlay face frame | 2 each |
| Pie-cut hinges, for joining the two doors | 2 each |
| Screws, for hanging and attaching to neighboring cabinets | 20 each |
| Cabinet doors or door-building materials | 2 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 3/4" and 1-1/4" | 30 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Shelves and top/bottom3/4" plywood (22-3/4" ripped strip) | 4 | 3/4" × 22 3/4" × 22 3/4" |
| Sides3/4" plywood (11-3/4" ripped strip) | 2 | 3/4" × 11 3/4" × 30" |
| Back support cleat1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 30" |
| Hanging cleats1x2Longest-point measurement; one end cut at a 45° bevel. Add more under the other fixed shelves for heavier loads. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 21" |
| Backs1/4" plywood | 2 | 1/4" × 22" × 30" |
| Face frame stiles1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 30" |
| Face frame top rail1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 10 1/2" |
| Face frame bottom rail1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9 3/4" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut all your shelves and sides as shown in your reference diagram from the two ripped plywood strips.
Drill pocket holes in all the shelves and sides as shown in your diagram, then attach the shelves to the sides.
Attach the 1x3 back cleat to the back of the cabinet, keeping the shelves level. Countersink the screws and use glue.
These cleats are for hanging the cabinet later. For heavier loads, add more cleats under the remaining fixed shelves rather than relying on just these two. Attach with glue and screws — 3/4" pocket holes on the back side work well here.
Build the face frame as its own assembly, with hidden 3/4" pocket holes on the back side. Attach it to the carcass using the pocket holes you predrilled in step 2.
For standard full-overlay doors with a 1/2" reveal between doors, size your doors as shown in your reference. When hanging, adjust so 1/4" of the face frame shows on the ends and 1/2" shows on the top and bottom.
Use the pie-cut hinges to join the two doors together so they swing open as a pair.
Install the concealed euro-style hinges to hang the door pair on the cabinet. A 1-1/4" overlay face-frame concealed hinge is the right choice for this face frame.
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