NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
Use your browser's Print (Ctrl/Cmd + P) and choose Save as PDF. This page works offline once you've opened it with a signal.
A small pocket-hole chair with tapered back legs and a shaped seat with cutouts at the rear corners for a leg-through fit.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back support rails | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 8" | Pine | ☐ |
| Front legs | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Back legs Optionally tapered on a table saw — top of taper is 1". | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 20" | Pine | ☐ |
| Side aprons | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 7 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Front/back apron | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 8" | Pine | ☐ |
| Seat top Rear corners relief-cut so the seat drops between the back legs and rails. | 1 | 3/4" × 11" × 12" | Plywood or MDF | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Pine, 1x3, 2 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Plywood or MDF, 3/4", at least 11" x 12" Pine or another paint-grade panel works if you plan to stain instead of paint. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/4" | 18 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 4 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 2 oz | ☐ |
| Paint and finishing supplies | 1 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Table Saw. Materials: Pine, 2x2, 8 ft
If you'd like a more refined look, taper the back legs on a table saw so the top of the taper is 1" — the chair works fine square if you'd rather skip this or don't have a table saw.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x3, 2 ft, Wood glue
Attach the back support rails, leaving a 1/8" reveal at the front and top with 1" spacing between the two rails. Pre-drill counterbores 7/8" deep with a standard Kreg-style pocket bit if you'd like to fill the holes with a wood dowel plug later. Glue and fasten with the 2-1/4" pocket screws.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 2x2, 8 ft
Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes all on one face of the back apron, then countersink two holes 7/8" deep on the bottom edge, 1-1/2" from each end, positioned to avoid hitting the pocket screws. Measure 7-3/4" up from the foot of the leg and set the apron there, leaving 3/4" of clearance for the seat. Glue and screw in place with the pocket holes facing in, where they'll be hidden once the seat is installed.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 2x2, 8 ft, Wood glue
Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes and countersink two holes 7/8" deep, 1-1/2" from each end, on the bottom of the front apron. Attach the front legs to the apron with glue and pocket screws.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig
Attach the front leg assembly to the back leg assembly, checking everything is square as you go. Pre-drill two countersunk holes on the back of the back legs, centered on the back apron, and attach with glue and pocket screws.
Tools: Circular Saw, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Plywood or MDF, 3/4", at least 11" x 12"
Cut the seat from your 3/4" panel. Mark one 12" side as the front, and on the opposite end draw a 2"-wide by 1-1/2"-tall rectangle in each rear corner. Measure in 1/2" from the side along the top of each rectangle and draw a line to the front corner, then cut along these lines with a circular saw (or a table saw set to 3°) for the straight sections, and a hand saw for the tight back corners. Dry-fit the seat into the frame and sand any tight spots rather than forcing it.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Paint and finishing supplies
Screw the seat down from underneath with four 1-1/4" pocket screws. Sand every edge, then paint or finish as desired.