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The rear seat corners aren't just rounded for looks — they're relief-cut so the seat can drop down between the back legs and rails, and getting that cutout right (measured in from the back edges, angled toward the front corners) is what makes the whole seat sit flush instead of binding against the back assembly. Dry-fit the seat before you commit to final sanding; a slightly-tight fit is fixable with a sanding pass, a too-generous one leaves a visible gap.
Tapering the back legs on a table saw is optional — the chair works fine square — but it's the single detail that makes this read as a considered piece of kids' furniture instead of a scrap-wood project. Pre-drilling counterbored pocket holes deep enough to plug with a dowel is a nice touch worth the extra step if the chair will be stained rather than painted, since exposed screw heads are much more visible under a clear finish than under paint.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x3, 2 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Plywood or MDF, 3/4", at least 11" x 12"Pine or another paint-grade panel works if you plan to stain instead of paint. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/4" | 18 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 4 each |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
| Paint and finishing supplies | 1 each |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Back support railsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 8" |
| Front legsPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" |
| Back legsPineOptionally tapered on a table saw — top of taper is 1". | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 20" |
| Side apronsPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 7 1/2" |
| Front/back apronPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 8" |
| Seat topPlywood or MDFRear corners relief-cut so the seat drops between the back legs and rails. | 1 | 3/4" × 11" × 12" |
Buy 3 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
If you'd like a more refined look, taper the back legs on a table saw so the top of the taper is 1" — the chair works fine square if you'd rather skip this or don't have a table saw.
Attach the back support rails, leaving a 1/8" reveal at the front and top with 1" spacing between the two rails. Pre-drill counterbores 7/8" deep with a standard Kreg-style pocket bit if you'd like to fill the holes with a wood dowel plug later. Glue and fasten with the 2-1/4" pocket screws.
Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes all on one face of the back apron, then countersink two holes 7/8" deep on the bottom edge, 1-1/2" from each end, positioned to avoid hitting the pocket screws. Measure 7-3/4" up from the foot of the leg and set the apron there, leaving 3/4" of clearance for the seat. Glue and screw in place with the pocket holes facing in, where they'll be hidden once the seat is installed.
Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes and countersink two holes 7/8" deep, 1-1/2" from each end, on the bottom of the front apron. Attach the front legs to the apron with glue and pocket screws.
Attach the front leg assembly to the back leg assembly, checking everything is square as you go. Pre-drill two countersunk holes on the back of the back legs, centered on the back apron, and attach with glue and pocket screws.
Cut the seat from your 3/4" panel. Mark one 12" side as the front, and on the opposite end draw a 2"-wide by 1-1/2"-tall rectangle in each rear corner. Measure in 1/2" from the side along the top of each rectangle and draw a line to the front corner, then cut along these lines with a circular saw (or a table saw set to 3°) for the straight sections, and a hand saw for the tight back corners. Dry-fit the seat into the frame and sand any tight spots rather than forcing it.
Screw the seat down from underneath with four 1-1/4" pocket screws. Sand every edge, then paint or finish as desired.
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