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A tall, narrow media cabinet built to fit a corner, with open component shelves up top and doored storage below.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dividers | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 10 1/2" | Plywood | ☐ |
| Center shelf | 1 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 20" | Plywood | ☐ |
| Shelves Ends cut to fit the corner angle. | 4 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 48" | Plywood | ☐ |
| Sides | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 47 1/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Back supports | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 47 1/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Back panel, center | 1 | 1/4" × 24 1/2" × 47 1/4" | Plywood | ☐ |
| Back panel, sides | 2 | 1/4" × 13" × 47 1/4" | Plywood | ☐ |
| Side face frame | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 47 1/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Shelf face frame trim | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 46 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Top trim, sides | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 50 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Top trim, back-right Both ends 45° off square, NOT parallel, long-point measurement. | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 50 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Top trim, back-left Both ends 45° off square, NOT parallel, long-point measurement. | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 43 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Top trim, front Both ends 45° off square, NOT parallel, long-point measurement. | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 36 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet Ripped into 15-3/4" strips for the shelves — referred to as "1x16" boards in the cut list. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x6, 8 ft Substitute ripped-down plywood strips if you have a table saw. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 5 each | ☐ |
| Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheet Back panel and door backs. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x4, 6 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Base moulding, 5-1/4" 6 ft stick. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft Door frames. | 2 each | ☐ |
| Cabinet door hinges | 2 pair | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 2" and 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 6 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet
Build the two upper shelves that hold the media components — a pocket hole jig makes this fastest, but countersunk screws or a finish nailer with glue both work fine. If you're using a pocket hole jig, drill every pocket hole across the whole project now, before assembly starts — pocket holes are much easier to drill into a flat board than into a partly-built cabinet.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig
Attach the top shelf from underneath with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" screws, and attach the bottom shelf from underneath with 2" countersunk screws — a pocket screw is very hard to drive into the bottom shelf once the cabinet is closed up, so use plain countersunk screws there instead.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x6, 8 ft, Wood glue
Mark all shelf locations on the two side panels. Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the sides at each shelf line, then attach with screws and glue.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: Pine, 1x2, 8 ft, Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheet
Attach the back support strips, then the three back panel pieces over them.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Pocket Hole Jig.
Build the face frame as its own assembly first, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" screws — or attach each board directly to the carcass with nails and glue if you'd rather skip a separate sub-assembly. A corner cabinet has no neighboring piece to hide a crooked face frame against, so take the extra minute to check it square before it's permanently on.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Miter Saw. Materials: Base moulding, 5-1/4"
Nail the base moulding on, mitering the corners for a clean wraparound.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Miter Saw. Materials: Pine, 1x4, 8 ft, Wood glue
The decorative top trim isn't structurally necessary, but it finishes the piece. Nail it down with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheet, Pine, 1x3, 8 ft, Cabinet door hinges
For overlay doors, build each door slightly larger than its opening and hang with overlay hinges — this is the more forgiving option and easier to align. For inset doors, measure your ACTUAL openings (don't trust a plan number over your own cabinet) and build to a consistent 1/8" gap on all sides. Either way, build the door frames, add plywood door backs, and hang with cabinet hinges.