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Corner furniture lives or dies on the face frame, because a corner cabinet has no adjacent piece to hide a crooked edge against — it's on display from two directions at once. Build the carcass first, then square up the face frame before you attach it; a face frame glued on out of square telegraphs through the whole front of the piece.
The open shelves on top are sized for game consoles and cable boxes and are left doorless on purpose, for remote-control line of sight. The lower section gets doors, and you have a real choice there: overlay doors (built slightly larger than the opening, mounted with overlay hinges) are more forgiving to install and easier to align, while inset doors look cleaner but demand that you measure your actual openings — not the plan's stated numbers — and build to a consistent 1/8" gap all around.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheetRipped into 15-3/4" strips for the shelves — referred to as "1x16" boards in the cut list. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 8 ftSubstitute ripped-down plywood strips if you have a table saw. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 5 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheetBack panel and door backs. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Base moulding, 5-1/4"6 ft stick. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ftDoor frames. | 2 each |
| Cabinet door hinges | 2 pair |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 2" and 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| DividersPlywood | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 10 1/2" |
| Center shelfPlywood | 1 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 20" |
| ShelvesPlywoodEnds cut to fit the corner angle. | 4 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 48" |
| SidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 47 1/4" |
| Back supportsPine | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 47 1/4" |
| Back panel, centerPlywood | 1 | 1/4" × 24 1/2" × 47 1/4" |
| Back panel, sidesPlywood | 2 | 1/4" × 13" × 47 1/4" |
| Side face framePine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 47 1/4" |
| Shelf face frame trimPine | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 46 1/2" |
| Top trim, sidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 50 1/2" |
| Top trim, back-rightPineBoth ends 45° off square, NOT parallel, long-point measurement. | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 50 1/2" |
| Top trim, back-leftPineBoth ends 45° off square, NOT parallel, long-point measurement. | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 43 1/2" |
| Top trim, frontPineBoth ends 45° off square, NOT parallel, long-point measurement. | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 36 1/2" |
Buy 15 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
1 board
3 boards
Build the two upper shelves that hold the media components — a pocket hole jig makes this fastest, but countersunk screws or a finish nailer with glue both work fine. If you're using a pocket hole jig, drill every pocket hole across the whole project now, before assembly starts — pocket holes are much easier to drill into a flat board than into a partly-built cabinet.
Attach the top shelf from underneath with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" screws, and attach the bottom shelf from underneath with 2" countersunk screws — a pocket screw is very hard to drive into the bottom shelf once the cabinet is closed up, so use plain countersunk screws there instead.
Mark all shelf locations on the two side panels. Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the sides at each shelf line, then attach with screws and glue.
Attach the back support strips, then the three back panel pieces over them.
Build the face frame as its own assembly first, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" screws — or attach each board directly to the carcass with nails and glue if you'd rather skip a separate sub-assembly. A corner cabinet has no neighboring piece to hide a crooked face frame against, so take the extra minute to check it square before it's permanently on.
Nail the base moulding on, mitering the corners for a clean wraparound.
The decorative top trim isn't structurally necessary, but it finishes the piece. Nail it down with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
For overlay doors, build each door slightly larger than its opening and hang with overlay hinges — this is the more forgiving option and easier to align. For inset doors, measure your ACTUAL openings (don't trust a plan number over your own cabinet) and build to a consistent 1/8" gap on all sides. Either way, build the door frames, add plywood door backs, and hang with cabinet hinges.
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5 boards
1 board
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →