Tall Corner Media Console

Build the two upper shelves that hold the media components — a pocket hole jig makes this fastest, but countersunk screws or a finish nailer with glue both work fine. If you're using a pocket hole jig, drill every pocket hole across the whole project now, before assembly starts — pocket holes are much easier to drill into a flat board than into a partly-built cabinet.

Attach the top shelf from underneath with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" screws, and attach the bottom shelf from underneath with 2" countersunk screws — a pocket screw is very hard to drive into the bottom shelf once the cabinet is closed up, so use plain countersunk screws there instead.

Mark all shelf locations on the two side panels. Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the sides at each shelf line, then attach with screws and glue.

Attach the back support strips, then the three back panel pieces over them.

Build the face frame as its own assembly first, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" screws — or attach each board directly to the carcass with nails and glue if you'd rather skip a separate sub-assembly. A corner cabinet has no neighboring piece to hide a crooked face frame against, so take the extra minute to check it square before it's permanently on.

Nail the base moulding on, mitering the corners for a clean wraparound.

The decorative top trim isn't structurally necessary, but it finishes the piece. Nail it down with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.

For overlay doors, build each door slightly larger than its opening and hang with overlay hinges — this is the more forgiving option and easier to align. For inset doors, measure your ACTUAL openings (don't trust a plan number over your own cabinet) and build to a consistent 1/8" gap on all sides. Either way, build the door frames, add plywood door backs, and hang with cabinet hinges.