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A low upholstered slipper chair on a shaped 2x4 frame with a notched-leg seat joint. The woodworking is a real build; the finish is fabric and foam.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back legs (A) Cut to the shaped profile; template the pair to match. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 31" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Back apron (B) | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 19" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Top of back (C) Angle to match the chair's lean. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 19" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Back supports (D) | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 19" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Seat front/back (E) | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 20 1/2" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Seat sides (F) | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 22" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Seat supports (G) Ends cut 40°, NOT parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 6" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Front legs (H) Notched to fit the seat-support triangle. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 13 1/2" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Seat platform (I) | 1 | 3/4" × 20 1/2" × 20 1/2" | 3/4 in MDF | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ft Back legs and back apron. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x4, 8 ft Seat frame. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 2x2, 8 ft Top rail, seat supports, front legs. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2, 8 ft (or 40 in scrap) Back supports. | 1 each | ☐ |
| MDF or plywood, 3/4 in, 24 in x 24 in Seat platform. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Upholstery foam Seat and back. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Curtain panel, 84 in Covers the whole chair. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Wood screws, 2 in | 1 box | ☐ |
| Staples (upholstery) | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Jigsaw, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft
Draw the leg profile onto one back leg (A), cut it out, and trace it onto the other. Clamp the two together and sand until they're perfectly matched, then cut. Mismatched back legs make the whole chair sit crooked.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, 2x2, 8 ft, Wood screws, 2 in, Wood glue
Attach the back apron (B) and top rail (C) to the legs (A) with pocket holes or by predrilling through the sides. Angle the top (C) to match the chair's lean. Trim or sand off any excess at the top of the legs created by the angle if you like.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 1x2, 8 ft (or 40 in scrap), Wood screws, 2 in, Wood glue
Add the back supports (D), spaced roughly evenly so they'll support the cushion. Optionally add a piece of 1/4" plywood behind them if you're worried the cushion needs more backing — the source didn't find it necessary.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Speed Square. Materials: 1x4, 8 ft, Wood screws, 2 in, Wood glue
Create a box from the (E) and (F) boards, with the (F) side boards on the OUTSIDE of the (E) front/back boards. Drill through the (F) boards or use pocket screws through the (E) boards.
Tools: Circular Saw. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft
Mark the front legs 1-1/2" down from the top. Set the seat supports (G) in the front corners, which form a triangular opening. Place the leg in the corner, trace the opening, and cut away the area that is NOT in the opening — creating a notch that fits the triangle. Use a circular or table saw for this if you possibly can; it's very difficult with a jigsaw.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Wood screws, 2 in
Insert the notch into the gap between the seat supports and the seat, and drill. Drive from the outside of the seat through the seat support — about 5 screws total per leg.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Speed Square. Materials: Wood screws, 2 in
Dry-fit both components — do NOT glue. Screw from the inside of the seat, measuring 11" up from the bottom of the back legs. Confirm everything is level here before moving on.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: MDF or plywood, 3/4 in, 24 in x 24 in, Wood screws, 2 in
Attach the 3/4" MDF/plywood seat platform (I) with pocket holes around the perimeter, or by screwing it to the seat supports. This is easier to do while the chair is still assembled.
Tools: Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Upholstery foam, Curtain panel, 84 in, Staples (upholstery)
Disassemble the chair and cut foam to fit. Upholster the pieces separately with the 84" curtain panel: do the seat first and use it to gauge where the back foam starts (the seat takes up a couple of inches, so the back foam can't run the full height). Bring the back fabric down to 11" from the bottom of the leg, where the seat starts, for a uniform line. Leave the screw areas bare of fabric — upholster fully, then cut the fabric away where you'll screw through. Reassemble.