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This is a slipper chair — a low, armless upholstered accent chair — built on a solid wood frame you make yourself, then upholstered with foam and a single curtain panel. The frame is where the woodworking lives: shaped 2x4 back legs, a seat box, and a genuinely clever notched front-leg joint. The upholstery at the end is straightforward but is the reason the chair looks bought.
The shaped back legs (A) set the chair's line. Draw the profile on one leg, cut it, and use it as a template to trace and cut the second, then clamp the pair and sand them until they match exactly — mismatched back legs make the chair sit crooked. The back apron (B) and top rail (C) tie the legs together; the top rail is angled to match the chair's lean.
The front legs carry the trickiest cut. The seat supports (G) are 2x2s with 40° non-parallel ends that create a triangular opening at each front corner; you notch the front leg to fit that triangle. The source builder is emphatic: do this notch with a circular or table saw if you possibly can — it's miserable with a jigsaw. Dry-fit the whole chair (no glue) and screw it together, then add the MDF seat platform. For upholstery, do the seat first and use it to gauge where the back foam starts, bring the back fabric down to 11" from the leg bottom (where the seat begins), and leave the screw areas bare of fabric so you can still assemble it. A single 84" curtain panel covers the whole chair.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ftBack legs and back apron. | 1 each |
| 1x4, 8 ftSeat frame. | 1 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftTop rail, seat supports, front legs. | 1 each |
| 1x2, 8 ft (or 40 in scrap)Back supports. | 1 each |
| MDF or plywood, 3/4 in, 24 in x 24 inSeat platform. | 1 each |
| Upholstery foamSeat and back. | 1 each |
| Curtain panel, 84 inCovers the whole chair. | 1 each |
| Wood screws, 2 in | 1 box |
| Staples (upholstery) | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Back legs (A)2x4Cut to the shaped profile; template the pair to match. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 31" |
| Back apron (B)2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 19" |
| Top of back (C)2x2Angle to match the chair's lean. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 19" |
| Back supports (D)1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 19" |
| Seat front/back (E)1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 20 1/2" |
| Seat sides (F)1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 22" |
| Seat supports (G)2x2Ends cut 40°, NOT parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 6" |
| Front legs (H)2x2Notched to fit the seat-support triangle. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
| Seat platform (I)3/4 in MDF | 1 | 3/4" × 20 1/2" × 20 1/2" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Draw the leg profile onto one back leg (A), cut it out, and trace it onto the other. Clamp the two together and sand until they're perfectly matched, then cut. Mismatched back legs make the whole chair sit crooked.
Attach the back apron (B) and top rail (C) to the legs (A) with pocket holes or by predrilling through the sides. Angle the top (C) to match the chair's lean. Trim or sand off any excess at the top of the legs created by the angle if you like.
Add the back supports (D), spaced roughly evenly so they'll support the cushion. Optionally add a piece of 1/4" plywood behind them if you're worried the cushion needs more backing — the source didn't find it necessary.
Create a box from the (E) and (F) boards, with the (F) side boards on the OUTSIDE of the (E) front/back boards. Drill through the (F) boards or use pocket screws through the (E) boards.
Mark the front legs 1-1/2" down from the top. Set the seat supports (G) in the front corners, which form a triangular opening. Place the leg in the corner, trace the opening, and cut away the area that is NOT in the opening — creating a notch that fits the triangle. Use a circular or table saw for this if you possibly can; it's very difficult with a jigsaw.
Insert the notch into the gap between the seat supports and the seat, and drill. Drive from the outside of the seat through the seat support — about 5 screws total per leg.
Dry-fit both components — do NOT glue. Screw from the inside of the seat, measuring 11" up from the bottom of the back legs. Confirm everything is level here before moving on.
Attach the 3/4" MDF/plywood seat platform (I) with pocket holes around the perimeter, or by screwing it to the seat supports. This is easier to do while the chair is still assembled.
Disassemble the chair and cut foam to fit. Upholster the pieces separately with the 84" curtain panel: do the seat first and use it to gauge where the back foam starts (the seat takes up a couple of inches, so the back foam can't run the full height). Bring the back fabric down to 11" from the bottom of the leg, where the seat starts, for a uniform line. Leave the screw areas bare of fabric — upholster fully, then cut the fabric away where you'll screw through. Reassemble.
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