Slipper Chair

Draw the leg profile onto one back leg (A), cut it out, and trace it onto the other. Clamp the two together and sand until they're perfectly matched, then cut. Mismatched back legs make the whole chair sit crooked.

Attach the back apron (B) and top rail (C) to the legs (A) with pocket holes or by predrilling through the sides. Angle the top (C) to match the chair's lean. Trim or sand off any excess at the top of the legs created by the angle if you like.

Add the back supports (D), spaced roughly evenly so they'll support the cushion. Optionally add a piece of 1/4" plywood behind them if you're worried the cushion needs more backing — the source didn't find it necessary.

Create a box from the (E) and (F) boards, with the (F) side boards on the OUTSIDE of the (E) front/back boards. Drill through the (F) boards or use pocket screws through the (E) boards.

Mark the front legs 1-1/2" down from the top. Set the seat supports (G) in the front corners, which form a triangular opening. Place the leg in the corner, trace the opening, and cut away the area that is NOT in the opening — creating a notch that fits the triangle. Use a circular or table saw for this if you possibly can; it's very difficult with a jigsaw.

Insert the notch into the gap between the seat supports and the seat, and drill. Drive from the outside of the seat through the seat support — about 5 screws total per leg.

Dry-fit both components — do NOT glue. Screw from the inside of the seat, measuring 11" up from the bottom of the back legs. Confirm everything is level here before moving on.

Attach the 3/4" MDF/plywood seat platform (I) with pocket holes around the perimeter, or by screwing it to the seat supports. This is easier to do while the chair is still assembled.

Disassemble the chair and cut foam to fit. Upholster the pieces separately with the 84" curtain panel: do the seat first and use it to gauge where the back foam starts (the seat takes up a couple of inches, so the back foam can't run the full height). Bring the back fabric down to 11" from the bottom of the leg, where the seat starts, for a uniform line. Leave the screw areas bare of fabric — upholster fully, then cut the fabric away where you'll screw through. Reassemble.