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A doorless wall cabinet with a hardwood face frame, edge-banded shelves, and pocket holes kept to the outside faces so it hangs flush with neighboring cabinets.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sides Width matches your chosen rip depth. | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 30" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Top and bottom | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 34" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Hanging support | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 34" | 3/4" plywood or 1x4 | ☐ |
| Back | 1 | 1/4" × 30" × 35 1/2" | 1/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Face frame top rail | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 36" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Face frame bottom rail | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 36" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 26" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Fixed shelves Trim the front edge back 1/8" for edge banding. | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 36" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Adjustable shelves Trim the front edge back 1/8" for edge banding. | 1 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 35 3/4" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, 18 linear feet, ripped to your chosen cabinet depth Shown ripped to 10-1/4" — any depth works, just keep it consistent across every cabinet in the run. | 18 ft | ☐ |
| 1/4" plywood, half sheet | 1 each | ☐ |
| Scrap plywood, for the hanging support A 1x4 works too if you don't have a suitable offcut. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x3 board, 3 ft (Hardwood, matching your cabinets) | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft (Hardwood, matching your cabinets) | 1 each | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" | 20 each | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 20 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 4 oz | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" | 30 each | ☐ |
| Shelf pins Only needed for adjustable shelves. | 8 each | ☐ |
| Edge banding | 6 ft | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 3/4" plywood, 18 linear feet, ripped to your chosen cabinet depth, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4"
Attach the top and bottom to the sides. Keep all pocket holes on the outside faces — neighboring cabinets or end panels will cover them once your kitchen is installed.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward along all the top, bottom, and side edges now, for attaching the face frame in a later step.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Scrap plywood, for the hanging support
Attach the hanging support from the back with pocket holes. Scraps from the carcass plywood work fine here, or use a 1x4.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: 1/4" plywood, half sheet, Finish nails, 3/4", Wood glue
Attach the back with nails and glue, using 3/4" nails.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x3 board, 3 ft, 1x2 board, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4"
Build the face frame first, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws. Attach it to the carcass through the pocket holes drilled in step 1, also with 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws. The face frame overhangs the sides by 1/4", but stays flush with the top and bottom.
Cut your shelves to the fixed or adjustable measurements, trimming the front edge back 1/8" to leave room for the edge banding. Iron on the edge banding to the front edge of each shelf and trim flush. Install fixed shelves permanently with nails and glue, or drill shelf-pin holes in the sides for adjustable shelves.
Tools: Drill / Driver
Hang the cabinet through the top back support, screwing into the studs in your wall.