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This cabinet is built to hang as part of a run — its pocket holes stay on the outside faces on purpose, since neighboring cabinets or end panels will cover them once your kitchen is installed. The ripped plywood depth (10-1/4" here) is a choice, not a fixed number: pick whatever depth suits your kitchen, just keep it identical across every cabinet in the run so the fronts line up.
Shelves get their front edge trimmed back 1/8" before edge banding is applied, which keeps the finished shelf edge flush with the plywood face rather than proud of it. Choose fixed shelves (screwed permanently in place) or adjustable ones (resting on shelf pins) based on how much you expect to reconfigure the cabinet later — fixed shelves add a little rigidity to the whole carcass that adjustable ones don't.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, 18 linear feet, ripped to your chosen cabinet depthShown ripped to 10-1/4" — any depth works, just keep it consistent across every cabinet in the run. | 18 ft |
| 1/4" plywood, half sheet | 1 each |
| Scrap plywood, for the hanging supportA 1x4 works too if you don't have a suitable offcut. | 1 each |
| 1x3 board, 3 ft | 1 each |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" | 20 each |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 20 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" | 30 each |
| Shelf pinsOnly needed for adjustable shelves. | 8 each |
| Edge banding | 6 ft |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Sides3/4" plywoodWidth matches your chosen rip depth. | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 30" |
| Top and bottom3/4" plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 34" |
| Hanging support3/4" plywood or 1x4 | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 34" |
| Back1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 30" × 35 1/2" |
| Face frame top rail1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 36" |
| Face frame bottom rail1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 36" |
| Face frame stiles1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 26" |
| Fixed shelves3/4" plywoodTrim the front edge back 1/8" for edge banding. | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 36" |
| Adjustable shelves3/4" plywoodTrim the front edge back 1/8" for edge banding. | 1 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 35 3/4" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Attach the top and bottom to the sides. Keep all pocket holes on the outside faces — neighboring cabinets or end panels will cover them once your kitchen is installed.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward along all the top, bottom, and side edges now, for attaching the face frame in a later step.
Attach the hanging support from the back with pocket holes. Scraps from the carcass plywood work fine here, or use a 1x4.
Attach the back with nails and glue, using 3/4" nails.
Build the face frame first, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws. Attach it to the carcass through the pocket holes drilled in step 1, also with 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws. The face frame overhangs the sides by 1/4", but stays flush with the top and bottom.
Cut your shelves to the fixed or adjustable measurements, trimming the front edge back 1/8" to leave room for the edge banding. Iron on the edge banding to the front edge of each shelf and trim flush. Install fixed shelves permanently with nails and glue, or drill shelf-pin holes in the sides for adjustable shelves.
Hang the cabinet through the top back support, screwing into the studs in your wall.
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