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A dining table with a ripped-and-glued 1x6 top, breadboard ends, and 4x4 splayed legs joined by a real iron pipe stretcher instead of a wood rail.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tabletop boards Ripped square on both edges; final assembled length trimmed to 71-1/2". | 7 | 3/4" × 5 1/4" × 72" | Pine 1x6 | ☐ |
| Breadboard ends | 2 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 36 3/4" | Pine 1x8 | ☐ |
| Underside trim, long | 2 | 3/4" × 2 3/4" × 86" | Pine 1x4 (ripped) or 1x3 | ☐ |
| Underside trim, short | 2 | 3/4" × 2 3/4" × 35 1/4" | Pine 1x4 (ripped) or 1x3 | ☐ |
| Legs Long point to short point, both ends cut 10° off square, ends parallel. | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 29 3/4" | 4x4 | ☐ |
| End aprons | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 28 1/4" | Pine 2x3 | ☐ |
| End stretchers | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 1/4" | Pine 2x4 | ☐ |
| Side stretchers Long point to long point, both ends 10° off square, not parallel. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 60" | Pine 2x3 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Pine, 1x6, 6 ft Ripped to 5-1/4" wide — tabletop. | 7 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x8, 8 ft Breadboard ends. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft Ripped to 2-3/4" wide for the underside trim — or use select 1x3 with square edges to skip ripping. | 3 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 2x3, 8 ft | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| 4x4, 8 ft Legs — yields all four from two 8 ft posts. | 2 each | ☐ |
| Iron pipe, 72" overall, with end nuts The stretcher — unions or turnbuckles work in place of plain pipe. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Cabinet screws, 2" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 8 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Table Saw. Materials: Pine, 1x6, 6 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2", Wood glue
Rip the rounded edges off the 1x6 boards to a final width of 5-1/4". Drill 3/4" pocket holes every 8" along the long edge of all but one board, then glue, clamp, and join with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Trim the ends square so the finished tabletop length is 71-1/2" — if you're changing the overall table length, keep this dimension matched to your pipe length.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x8, 8 ft, Wood glue
Measure and cut the 1x8 breadboard ends, mark and drill their pocket holes, and attach to the tabletop with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.
Tools: Circular Saw, Pocket Hole Jig, Table Saw. Materials: Pine, 1x4, 8 ft, Wood glue
Rip the 1x4s down to 2-3/4" wide (or use square-edged 1x3s and skip this). Drill pocket holes facing upward every 8" along one edge and attach to the underside of the tabletop with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. For the false cut lines that give the hand-hewn look, score with a square and a razor knife or chisel, or set a circular saw blade to about 1/8" deep.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig
Measure and cut the end aprons, then drill pocket holes to attach them to the side aprons/legs. Set the assembled tabletop aside on a flat, level surface to fully dry.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 2x3, 8 ft, Pine, 2x4, 8 ft, 4x4, 8 ft
Set the miter saw to a 10° angle and cut the four legs, keeping the ends parallel at 29-3/4" short-point-to-long-point. Cut the 2x3 and 2x4 aprons and stretchers so the legs fit correctly inside the tabletop footprint, and dry-fit before committing. Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes, two per end, and attach the aprons and stretchers to the legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws — it works best to attach both pieces to one leg first, then flip the assembly and attach the second leg using gravity to help hold things in place.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 2x3, 8 ft, Wood glue
Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x3 inside aprons and attach to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Forstner Bits. Materials: Iron pipe, 72" overall, with end nuts
Bore holes centered in the 2x4 end stretchers, sized slightly larger than the pipe's outside diameter — a forstner bit gives the cleanest hole. Thread the pipe through both stretchers and tighten the end nuts.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Cabinet screws, 2", Wood glue
Set the tabletop on top of the completed base and attach from the inside with 2" screws and glue. Optional 1x3 supports pocket-holed between the tabletop underside and the 2x3 side aprons add extra strength if you want it.