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Two things make this table more than a standard farmhouse build: the top and the stretcher. The top is genuinely built-up — seven ripped 1x6 boards edge-glued and pocket-screwed together, then capped with breadboard ends and framed underneath with ripped 1x4s (or square-edged 1x3s if you skip the ripping) that get scored with false cut lines for a hand-hewn look. The base swaps the usual wood stretcher for a length of iron pipe threaded through holes bored in the 2x4 stretchers — genuine industrial hardware doing structural work, not just decoration.
The legs are cut at a 10° angle for a slight, deliberate splay, which is a detail worth getting right: cut them square by mistake and the whole base looks like an afterthought instead of a design choice. Dry-fit the base before any glue goes on permanently, since the legs, aprons, and stretcher all have to agree with each other at that angle simultaneously.
If you're adjusting the table's overall length, keep the tabletop boards matched to the length of your pipe — the two dimensions are linked by design, not independently adjustable.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x6, 6 ftRipped to 5-1/4" wide — tabletop. | 7 each |
| Pine, 1x8, 8 ftBreadboard ends. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ftRipped to 2-3/4" wide for the underside trim — or use select 1x3 with square edges to skip ripping. | 3 each |
| Pine, 2x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 4x4, 8 ftLegs — yields all four from two 8 ft posts. | 2 each |
| Iron pipe, 72" overall, with end nutsThe stretcher — unions or turnbuckles work in place of plain pipe. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Cabinet screws, 2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 8 oz |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Tabletop boardsPine 1x6Ripped square on both edges; final assembled length trimmed to 71-1/2". | 7 | 3/4" × 5 1/4" × 72" |
| Breadboard endsPine 1x8 | 2 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 36 3/4" |
| Underside trim, longPine 1x4 (ripped) or 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 3/4" × 86" |
| Underside trim, shortPine 1x4 (ripped) or 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 3/4" × 35 1/4" |
| Legs4x4Long point to short point, both ends cut 10° off square, ends parallel. | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 29 3/4" |
| End apronsPine 2x3 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 28 1/4" |
| End stretchersPine 2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 1/4" |
| Side stretchersPine 2x3Long point to long point, both ends 10° off square, not parallel. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 60" |
Buy 16 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
2 boards
1 board
7 boards
3 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Rip the rounded edges off the 1x6 boards to a final width of 5-1/4". Drill 3/4" pocket holes every 8" along the long edge of all but one board, then glue, clamp, and join with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Trim the ends square so the finished tabletop length is 71-1/2" — if you're changing the overall table length, keep this dimension matched to your pipe length.
Measure and cut the 1x8 breadboard ends, mark and drill their pocket holes, and attach to the tabletop with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.
Rip the 1x4s down to 2-3/4" wide (or use square-edged 1x3s and skip this). Drill pocket holes facing upward every 8" along one edge and attach to the underside of the tabletop with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. For the false cut lines that give the hand-hewn look, score with a square and a razor knife or chisel, or set a circular saw blade to about 1/8" deep.
Measure and cut the end aprons, then drill pocket holes to attach them to the side aprons/legs. Set the assembled tabletop aside on a flat, level surface to fully dry.
Set the miter saw to a 10° angle and cut the four legs, keeping the ends parallel at 29-3/4" short-point-to-long-point. Cut the 2x3 and 2x4 aprons and stretchers so the legs fit correctly inside the tabletop footprint, and dry-fit before committing. Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes, two per end, and attach the aprons and stretchers to the legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws — it works best to attach both pieces to one leg first, then flip the assembly and attach the second leg using gravity to help hold things in place.
Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x3 inside aprons and attach to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.
Bore holes centered in the 2x4 end stretchers, sized slightly larger than the pipe's outside diameter — a forstner bit gives the cleanest hole. Thread the pipe through both stretchers and tighten the end nuts.
Set the tabletop on top of the completed base and attach from the inside with 2" screws and glue. Optional 1x3 supports pocket-holed between the tabletop underside and the 2x3 side aprons add extra strength if you want it.
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