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Step-by-step build — 8 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Rip the rounded edges off the 1x6 boards to a final width of 5-1/4". Drill 3/4" pocket holes every 8" along the long edge of all but one board, then glue, clamp, and join with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Trim the ends square so the finished tabletop length is 71-1/2" — if you're changing the overall table length, keep this dimension matched to your pipe length.
Measure and cut the 1x8 breadboard ends, mark and drill their pocket holes, and attach to the tabletop with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.
Rip the 1x4s down to 2-3/4" wide (or use square-edged 1x3s and skip this). Drill pocket holes facing upward every 8" along one edge and attach to the underside of the tabletop with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. For the false cut lines that give the hand-hewn look, score with a square and a razor knife or chisel, or set a circular saw blade to about 1/8" deep.
Measure and cut the end aprons, then drill pocket holes to attach them to the side aprons/legs. Set the assembled tabletop aside on a flat, level surface to fully dry.
Set the miter saw to a 10° angle and cut the four legs, keeping the ends parallel at 29-3/4" short-point-to-long-point. Cut the 2x3 and 2x4 aprons and stretchers so the legs fit correctly inside the tabletop footprint, and dry-fit before committing. Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes, two per end, and attach the aprons and stretchers to the legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws — it works best to attach both pieces to one leg first, then flip the assembly and attach the second leg using gravity to help hold things in place.
Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x3 inside aprons and attach to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.
Bore holes centered in the 2x4 end stretchers, sized slightly larger than the pipe's outside diameter — a forstner bit gives the cleanest hole. Thread the pipe through both stretchers and tighten the end nuts.
Set the tabletop on top of the completed base and attach from the inside with 2" screws and glue. Optional 1x3 supports pocket-holed between the tabletop underside and the 2x3 side aprons add extra strength if you want it.