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A 12"-deep, 36"-wide double-door wall cabinet built from ripped plywood, with a wall-anchored back support, adjustable shelves, and a full-overlay face frame.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sides | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 30" | Plywood, 3/4" | ☐ |
| Top and bottom | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 34" | Plywood, 3/4" | ☐ |
| Back top support | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 34" | Plywood scrap or 1x4 | ☐ |
| Back | 1 | 1/4" × 25 1/2" × 30" | Plywood, 1/4" | ☐ |
| Face frame stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 30" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame rails | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 33" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame mid stile | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 27" | Pine 1x3 | ☐ |
| Shelves Cut to fit exactly, allowing for edge banding if used. | 2 | 3/4" × 10" × 33 3/4" | Plywood, 3/4" | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", ripped to 10-1/4" strips, 4x8 sheet | 1 each | ☐ |
| Plywood, 1/4", for back | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x2, 12 ft total | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x3, 27 in | 1 each | ☐ |
| Plywood scrap or 1x4, for back support | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Edge banding, matching veneer | 1 roll | ☐ |
| Shelf pins | 4 each | ☐ |
| Full-overlay doors, 17-1/2" x 29" | 2 each | ☐ |
| Concealed hinges, 1-1/4" overlay, set | 2 set | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Plywood, 3/4", ripped to 10-1/4" strips, 4x8 sheet
Drill shelf-pin holes on the insides of the side panels for adjustable shelves — do this now, before assembly, since it's much harder afterward. Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing the front edges for attaching the face frame later. For a taller cabinet, cut the sides taller; for a deeper cabinet, rip the plywood wider.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Plywood, 3/4", ripped to 10-1/4" strips, 4x8 sheet, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
Drill pocket holes facing forward along the front edges of the top and bottom, same as the sides. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the top and bottom and attach to the sides with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Every pocket hole stays on the outside of the cabinet — the inside should show no visible joints.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Plywood scrap or 1x4, for back support, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
Attach the back support inset at the top of the cabinet, with its pocket holes hidden on the back side. This board is what the cabinet hangs from — when you install it, screw through this board into a wall stud. For heavy cabinets or contents, add a second support at the bottom too.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: Plywood, 1/4", for back, Finish nails, 3/4"
The back panel is not structural — it only finishes the inside of the cabinet and must never be used for hanging. Attach with glue and finish nails.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x2, 12 ft total, Pine, 1x3, 27 in
Build the face frame from the stiles, rails, and mid stile with pocket holes and glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
Attach the completed face frame to the front of the carcass with pocket hole screws.
Materials: Edge banding, matching veneer, Shelf pins
Cut the shelves to fit the opening, using shelf pins for adjustability, and apply edge banding to the front edges for a finished look.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Full-overlay doors, 17-1/2" x 29", Concealed hinges, 1-1/4" overlay, set
Install the two full-overlay doors with the concealed hinges, leaving a consistent reveal gap between the doors and the face frame.