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The back support board is deliberately the only thing this cabinet actually hangs from — it's inset at the top specifically so it lands on a wall stud, and the plan is explicit that the back panel itself is NOT structural and must never be used for hanging. Confusing the two is an easy mistake with real consequences: a cabinet screwed through its thin back panel into drywall alone will pull straight out of the wall the first time it's loaded.
Every pocket hole in the carcass gets planned before assembly, drilled facing the front edges where the face frame will hide them, so the inside of the finished cabinet shows no visible joinery at all. Shelf-pin holes go in at the same stage, before the sides are ever joined to the top and bottom — reaching in afterward to drill them accurately is far harder than doing it on a flat, unassembled panel.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", ripped to 10-1/4" strips, 4x8 sheet | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", for back | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 12 ft total | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 27 in | 1 each |
| Plywood scrap or 1x4, for back support | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box |
| Edge banding, matching veneer | 1 roll |
| Shelf pins | 4 each |
| Full-overlay doors, 17-1/2" x 29" | 2 each |
| Concealed hinges, 1-1/4" overlay, set | 2 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPlywood, 3/4" | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 30" |
| Top and bottomPlywood, 3/4" | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 34" |
| Back top supportPlywood scrap or 1x4 | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 34" |
| BackPlywood, 1/4" | 1 | 1/4" × 25 1/2" × 30" |
| Face frame stilesPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 30" |
| Face frame railsPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 33" |
| Face frame mid stilePine 1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 27" |
| ShelvesPlywood, 3/4"Cut to fit exactly, allowing for edge banding if used. | 2 | 3/4" × 10" × 33 3/4" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Drill shelf-pin holes on the insides of the side panels for adjustable shelves — do this now, before assembly, since it's much harder afterward. Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing the front edges for attaching the face frame later. For a taller cabinet, cut the sides taller; for a deeper cabinet, rip the plywood wider.
Drill pocket holes facing forward along the front edges of the top and bottom, same as the sides. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the top and bottom and attach to the sides with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Every pocket hole stays on the outside of the cabinet — the inside should show no visible joints.
Attach the back support inset at the top of the cabinet, with its pocket holes hidden on the back side. This board is what the cabinet hangs from — when you install it, screw through this board into a wall stud. For heavy cabinets or contents, add a second support at the bottom too.
The back panel is not structural — it only finishes the inside of the cabinet and must never be used for hanging. Attach with glue and finish nails.
Build the face frame from the stiles, rails, and mid stile with pocket holes and glue.
Attach the completed face frame to the front of the carcass with pocket hole screws.
Cut the shelves to fit the opening, using shelf pins for adjustability, and apply edge banding to the front edges for a finished look.
Install the two full-overlay doors with the concealed hinges, leaving a consistent reveal gap between the doors and the face frame.
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