36" Wall Cabinet, Double Door

Drill shelf-pin holes on the insides of the side panels for adjustable shelves — do this now, before assembly, since it's much harder afterward. Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing the front edges for attaching the face frame later. For a taller cabinet, cut the sides taller; for a deeper cabinet, rip the plywood wider.

Drill pocket holes facing forward along the front edges of the top and bottom, same as the sides. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the top and bottom and attach to the sides with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Every pocket hole stays on the outside of the cabinet — the inside should show no visible joints.

Attach the back support inset at the top of the cabinet, with its pocket holes hidden on the back side. This board is what the cabinet hangs from — when you install it, screw through this board into a wall stud. For heavy cabinets or contents, add a second support at the bottom too.

The back panel is not structural — it only finishes the inside of the cabinet and must never be used for hanging. Attach with glue and finish nails.

Build the face frame from the stiles, rails, and mid stile with pocket holes and glue.

Attach the completed face frame to the front of the carcass with pocket hole screws.

Cut the shelves to fit the opening, using shelf pins for adjustability, and apply edge banding to the front edges for a finished look.

Install the two full-overlay doors with the concealed hinges, leaving a consistent reveal gap between the doors and the face frame.