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A full-size outdoor sofa with five mitered X panels forming the back, built for cushions rather than bare-wood seating.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Large X pieces Both ends cut at 30° off square, ends parallel. | 10 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 20 13/16" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| Small X pieces Both ends cut at 30° off square, ends not parallel, longest point measurement. | 20 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 10 3/8" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| X ends | 10 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 12 1/8" | Pine 2x2 | ☐ |
| X tops/bottoms | 7 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 23" | Pine 2x3 | ☐ |
| Side top trim | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 23" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| Legs | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 33 1/2" | Pine 2x2 | ☐ |
| Side aprons | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 23" | Pine 2x6 | ☐ |
| Front/back aprons | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 72" | Pine 2x6 | ☐ |
| Back centers | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17 1/4" | Pine 2x2 | ☐ |
| Back top | 1 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 72" | Pine 2x3 | ☐ |
| Back top trim | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 72" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| Cleats Set the back cleat slightly lower than the front for a reclined seat. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 72" | Pine 2x2 | ☐ |
| Seat slats Cut to fit; add more if your cushions are soft. | 16 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 23" | Pine 1x3 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft X panels. | 7 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft X ends, back centers, cleats. | 7 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 2x3, 8 ft | 3 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 2x6, 8 ft Side and front/back aprons. | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft Seat slats. | 4 each | ☐ |
| Unfinished wood curtain rod finials Decorative detail on the X ends. | 4 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, assorted | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 8 oz | ☐ |
| Exterior wood finish | 1 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: Pine, 1x2, 8 ft
Nail the shorter angled 1x2 pieces to the longer 1x2 pieces to form ten identical X halves. Test-fit that a 1x2 slots correctly into the middle of each before moving on.
Combine the ten halves into five complete Xs. Stack all five on top of each other and check they match before proceeding — this is the checkpoint that catches a mismatched panel while it's still cheap to fix.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 2x2, 8 ft
Attach the 2x2 X ends to all five X panels, using either pocket holes (set for 3/4" stock, 1-1/4" screws — it's fine if the pocket hangs slightly over the board edge) or 2-1/2" screws or nails and glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 2x2, 8 ft, Pine, 2x3, 8 ft, Pine, 2x6, 8 ft
On two of the five X panels, attach 2x3 tops and bottoms with pocket holes, then attach the legs to these two ends. Finish each end by adding the 2x6 apron, either with pocket holes or 2-1/2" screws countersunk from the outside. Set both completed ends aside.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Tape Measure. Materials: Pocket hole screws, assorted
Lay out all the back pieces and mark the joints. Drill pocket holes set for 1-1/2" stock and assemble with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, checking for square as you go. This is the longest single step in the build — take the time to get it right, since everything else registers off it.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Wood glue
Attach the finished back to the two end assemblies with 2-1/2" screws and glue, adjusting for square as you go.
Tools: Drill / Driver
Attach the front apron to complete the frame. Add the seat cleats, setting the back cleat slightly lower than the front — a small recline makes a real difference in comfort.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Pine, 1x3, 8 ft, Unfinished wood curtain rod finials, Exterior wood finish
Lay and screw down the seat slats, adding more than the base cut list calls for if your cushions are on the softer side. Sand everything, attach the curtain-rod finials to the X ends for the finishing decorative touch, and apply an exterior finish.