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A hardwood-veneer plywood corner wall cabinet with beveled sides, a matching face frame, and a full-overlay door — built to join a run of matching cabinets.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sides One edge beveled at 45°; widest width is 12-1/2". | 2 | 3/4" × 12 1/2" × 30" | Hardwood plywood | ☐ |
| Top and bottom | 2 | 3/4" × 18 3/4" × 32 1/8" | Hardwood plywood | ☐ |
| Shelf Both edges beveled at 45°; widest width is 12-1/4", ripped from the 12-1/2" strip. | 1 | 3/4" × 12 1/4" × 30" | Hardwood plywood | ☐ |
| Shelf edging Longest-point measurement, one end cut at 45° bevel. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 14 3/4" | Hardwood-veneer 1x2 | ☐ |
| Back brace Both edges beveled at 45°, ripped from the same strip as the sides. | 1 | 3/4" × 12 1/2" × 30" | Hardwood plywood | ☐ |
| Back panels | 2 | 1/4" × 15 7/8" × 30" | Hardwood plywood, 1/4" | ☐ |
| Face frame stiles Ripped at a 45° bevel — 1-1/2" on the short side, 2-1/4" on the long side. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/4" × 30" | Hardwood-veneer 1x3 | ☐ |
| Face frame rails | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 12 7/8" | Hardwood-veneer 1x2 | ☐ |
| Door Made to fit — overall dimensions 29" x 13-7/8" x 3/4". | 1 | 3/4" × 13 7/8" × 29" | Hardwood plywood or built frame | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet | 1 each | ☐ |
| Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 1/4", half sheet Backs and door panel. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Hardwood-veneer 1x2, 8 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Hardwood-veneer 1x3, 6 ft An additional 8 ft needed if building a door. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Edge banding, matching veneer | 1 roll | ☐ |
| Shelf pins, with shelf-pin jig | 4 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 4 oz | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 1" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Euro-style concealed hinges, 1/2" overlay face-frame | 2 pair | ☐ |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Table Saw. Materials: Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet
Set your table saw's bevel to 45° and rip the plywood sheet to a 12-1/2" width, with 12-1/2" being the longest measurement on the beveled edge (the short edge comes out to 11-3/4"). Test-cut on scrap first. Then rip the remaining strip 18-3/4" wide for the top, bottom, and shelf — the center offcut is scrap but can be used for extra shelves.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Table Saw. Materials: Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet
From the 18-3/4"-wide strips, cut two pieces 32-1/8" long. Mark and cut out the top and bottom shape from these, then use one as a pattern to cut the shelf slightly smaller (especially at the pointed corners). Drill 3/4" pocket holes in the top and bottom pieces as planned.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet
Attach the sides to the top and bottom. Drill the 3/4" pocket holes facing forward for attaching face frames later — an adjacent cabinet will hide them, or 1/4" plywood finishes an exposed end. Place bottom-shelf pocket holes facing down, and top-shelf pocket holes facing up, so both are hidden.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Table Saw. Materials: Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet
Rip the back brace down so both edges are beveled, matching the side ripping. Attach at the top and bottom of the carcass.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 1/4", half sheet, Wood glue
Finish off the back with the thin plywood panel, nailed and glued in place.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Table Saw. Materials: Hardwood-veneer 1x2, 8 ft, Hardwood-veneer 1x3, 6 ft, Wood glue
Rip the face-frame stock down to a 1-1/2" reveal on the short side, beveling the edge at 45° — test first to confirm accuracy. Build the face frame with glue and pocket holes (3/4" and 1-1/4" screws). Attach to the front of the cabinet, overhanging about 1/2" on each side.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 1/4", half sheet, Euro-style concealed hinges, 1/2" overlay face-frame
Leave room for the door to swing open without hitting an adjacent cabinet. Build or buy a door sized to the opening, and attach with the 1/2" overlay, face-frame concealed Euro-style hinges — at least two per door for a 30"-tall cabinet.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Sandpaper, assorted grit
Install the corner cabinet first, then work outward to adjacent cabinets. Screw into wall studs and make sure there's adequate support — these cabinets get heavy. Leave a 1/2" gap between cabinets for adjustment if your walls aren't perfectly square, aligning the face frames precisely and shimming the gap. Screw cabinets together from the insides, hiding a few screws face-frame to face-frame for a seamless look.
Sand every exposed surface and finish.