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Every beveled edge in this cabinet needs to be cut on the same setup, which is why the source is firm about doing this on a table saw rather than freehanding a circular saw: set the bevel to 45° once, rip the full sheet to width, and every side, face-frame rip, and back panel comes out at the same angle. Test the bevel cut on scrap before committing the full sheet — a table saw bevel that's off by even half a degree compounds visibly across a cabinet this size.
Pocket holes get placed with real intent here, not just wherever is convenient: facing forward so an adjacent cabinet's side panel hides them, and facing top or bottom on shelves so they're hidden by the shelf above or below. Planning hole placement before drilling is what keeps a hardwood-veneer cabinet looking finished on every visible face.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet | 1 each |
| Hardwood cabinet-grade plywood, 1/4", half sheetBacks and door panel. | 1 each |
| Hardwood-veneer 1x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Hardwood-veneer 1x3, 6 ftAn additional 8 ft needed if building a door. | 1 each |
| Edge banding, matching veneer | 1 roll |
| Shelf pins, with shelf-pin jig | 4 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Finish nails, 1" | 1 box |
| Euro-style concealed hinges, 1/2" overlay face-frame | 2 pair |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesHardwood plywoodOne edge beveled at 45°; widest width is 12-1/2". | 2 | 3/4" × 12 1/2" × 30" |
| Top and bottomHardwood plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 18 3/4" × 32 1/8" |
| ShelfHardwood plywoodBoth edges beveled at 45°; widest width is 12-1/4", ripped from the 12-1/2" strip. | 1 | 3/4" × 12 1/4" × 30" |
| Shelf edgingHardwood-veneer 1x2Longest-point measurement, one end cut at 45° bevel. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 14 3/4" |
| Back braceHardwood plywoodBoth edges beveled at 45°, ripped from the same strip as the sides. | 1 | 3/4" × 12 1/2" × 30" |
| Back panelsHardwood plywood, 1/4" | 2 | 1/4" × 15 7/8" × 30" |
| Face frame stilesHardwood-veneer 1x3Ripped at a 45° bevel — 1-1/2" on the short side, 2-1/4" on the long side. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/4" × 30" |
| Face frame railsHardwood-veneer 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 12 7/8" |
| DoorHardwood plywood or built frameMade to fit — overall dimensions 29" x 13-7/8" x 3/4". | 1 | 3/4" × 13 7/8" × 29" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
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Set your table saw's bevel to 45° and rip the plywood sheet to a 12-1/2" width, with 12-1/2" being the longest measurement on the beveled edge (the short edge comes out to 11-3/4"). Test-cut on scrap first. Then rip the remaining strip 18-3/4" wide for the top, bottom, and shelf — the center offcut is scrap but can be used for extra shelves.
From the 18-3/4"-wide strips, cut two pieces 32-1/8" long. Mark and cut out the top and bottom shape from these, then use one as a pattern to cut the shelf slightly smaller (especially at the pointed corners). Drill 3/4" pocket holes in the top and bottom pieces as planned.
Attach the sides to the top and bottom. Drill the 3/4" pocket holes facing forward for attaching face frames later — an adjacent cabinet will hide them, or 1/4" plywood finishes an exposed end. Place bottom-shelf pocket holes facing down, and top-shelf pocket holes facing up, so both are hidden.
Rip the back brace down so both edges are beveled, matching the side ripping. Attach at the top and bottom of the carcass.
Finish off the back with the thin plywood panel, nailed and glued in place.
Rip the face-frame stock down to a 1-1/2" reveal on the short side, beveling the edge at 45° — test first to confirm accuracy. Build the face frame with glue and pocket holes (3/4" and 1-1/4" screws). Attach to the front of the cabinet, overhanging about 1/2" on each side.
Leave room for the door to swing open without hitting an adjacent cabinet. Build or buy a door sized to the opening, and attach with the 1/2" overlay, face-frame concealed Euro-style hinges — at least two per door for a 30"-tall cabinet.
Install the corner cabinet first, then work outward to adjacent cabinets. Screw into wall studs and make sure there's adequate support — these cabinets get heavy. Leave a 1/2" gap between cabinets for adjustment if your walls aren't perfectly square, aligning the face frames precisely and shimming the gap. Screw cabinets together from the insides, hiding a few screws face-frame to face-frame for a seamless look.
Sand every exposed surface and finish.
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1 board
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →