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A whole built-in loft system for a tiny house — a queen bed with under-bed drawers, a storage wall, a shelf, and a loft floor above, all tied into the structure.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wall posts One at 52", one at 71" — cut to your ceiling and loft heights. | 2 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 52" | 4x4 | ☐ |
| Wall studs | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 53" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Ladder supports Two at 13", one at 8". | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 13" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Wall back panel | 1 | 1/4" × 45 3/4" × 60" | 1/4" plywood or paneling | ☐ |
| Hidden storage door | 1 | 3/4" × 12 3/4" × 52 3/4" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Bed long frame rails | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 80" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Bed cross supports | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 16 1/2" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Bed mattress rail (long) | 1 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 80" | 2x8 | ☐ |
| Bed mattress supports | 4 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 58 1/2" | 2x8 | ☐ |
| Wall cleats 76", 80", and length of room (e.g. 94-1/2") — measure your space. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 80" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Loft floor joists | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 82" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Drawer sides / fronts / backs Cut to fit your openings and slides — the given sizes assume perfect stock. | 12 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 24" | 1x6 | ☐ |
| Drawer / door faces Cut to fit; 1/8" gap all around. | 4 | 3/4" × 16 1/4" × 24 1/4" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 4x4, 6 ft (Pine / SPF) Wall posts — the structural backbone. | 2 each | ☐ |
| 2x4, 8 ft (SPF / Pine) Wall framing, bed supports, wall cleats, loft floor framing. | 14 each | ☐ |
| 2x8, 8 ft (SPF / Pine) Bed mattress framing. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 2x8, 10 ft (SPF / Pine) Bed mattress framing. | 2 each | ☐ |
| 1x6, 8 ft (Pine) Drawer boxes. | 3 each | ☐ |
| 2x6 tongue-and-groove flooring Loft floor / ceiling above. | 40 sq ft | ☐ |
| 1/4" plywood Drawer bottoms and shoe-storage backs. | 1 sheet | ☐ |
| Beadboard, paneling, or 1x6 T&G Back of the storage wall. | 1 sheet | ☐ |
| 3/4" plywood Drawer and door faces. | 1 sheet | ☐ |
| 24" bottom-mount drawer slides | 3 pair | ☐ |
| Hinges Add clasps/hasps if not self-closing. | 4 set | ☐ |
| Knobs or handles | 6 each | ☐ |
| Black pipe (ladder and railing) Build the railing to a real guardrail spec — pipe as shown is not code-approved. | 1 set | ☐ |
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 4x4, 6 ft, 2x4, 8 ft, 5" lag screws
Build the main wall system around the 4x4 posts — the best way to attach into the posts is with a Kreg jig, hiding pocket holes on the underside. This wall is the structural backbone; it must go up plumb and be lag-screwed into the house's wall studs with the 5" lags. Everything else references this wall, so get it right first.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Speed Square. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, Structural / pocket screws and nails
Build the 2x4 bed support frame with 2-3/4" self-tapping screws. Make this area very square — a racked bed frame throws off the drawers below it. Then attach the two frame pieces together.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, Structural / pocket screws and nails
Use a level to attach the wall cleats to the wall studs with 2-3/4" screws. These cleats carry the far edge of the bed and loft — level and stud-anchored, not into drywall.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Speed Square. Materials: 2x8, 8 ft, 2x8, 10 ft, Structural / pocket screws and nails
| 5" lag screws Anchoring the 4x4 posts to wall studs. |
| 8 each |
| ☐ |
| Structural / pocket screws and nails 2-1/2" pocket screws, 2-3/4" self-tapping wood screws, 1-1/4" nails. | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 16 oz | ☐ |
| Finish | 1 kit | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Use 2x8s to support the mattress — they create a tall cavity for the under-bed drawers. (Plain 2x4 or 2x6 framing is fine if you skip the drawers.) If doing drawers, plan the framing around the drawer openings now.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: Beadboard, paneling, or 1x6 T&G, Structural / pocket screws and nails
Cover the back of the storage wall with your chosen material — leftover 1x6 tongue-and-groove, beadboard, paneling, or plywood all work. This finishes the compartment that sits behind the wall.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, 2x6 tongue-and-groove flooring
Lay 2x6 tongue-and-groove for the loft floor above. Because the span over the doorway is close to 36", don't drop to 1x material here — the 2x6 T&G carries the span safely.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x6, 8 ft, 1/4" plywood, 24" bottom-mount drawer slides
Build the under-bed drawers to fit their real openings and the 24" slides — the listed sizes assume a perfect build. For the tilt-out shoe cubbies, box out an area with 1x3s and back it with scrap 1/4" plywood.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level. Materials: 24" bottom-mount drawer slides
Install the drawer slides and hang the drawers, checking each for smooth, level travel before moving on.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 3/4" plywood, Hinges, Knobs or handles
Attach the drawer faces and doors, keeping an even 1/8" gap on all sides when installed correctly. Hang doors on the hinges; add clasps or hasps if the hinges aren't self-closing.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 1x6, 8 ft, Structural / pocket screws and nails
For the bed slats, use a full-length board (front edge painted) for the first, visible slat, then use up any 3/4" material for the rest, splicing joints over the 2x8 framing so every slat is supported.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver. Materials: 3/4" plywood, Hinges
Hinge the 3/4" plywood hidden-storage door over the front opening. Cut a circle in the middle to act as a finger pull, so there's no hardware breaking the clean face.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Drill Bit Set. Materials: Black pipe (ladder and railing)
Black iron pipe makes an easy, good-looking ladder and railing. But as shown it is NOT code-approved as a guardrail. If anyone — especially children — will use this loft, build the railing to a real guardrail height and baluster spacing. A fall from a loft is a serious injury; this is not the place to cut corners.
Tools: Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Finish
Sand every reachable surface — this is a piece people climb into and touch daily — and finish to match your tiny-house interior. Confirm every structural connection is tight before you load it.