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A modern chair whose back is a lattice of overlapping 1x2 squares. Strong, striking, and — as the builder warns — tedious to keep square. Pocket-hole build.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back legs Cut to the shaped profile; sand the pair to match. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 36" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Seat back and aprons | 6 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 16" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Front legs | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17 1/4" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Seat back top rail | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Large square pieces | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6 7/8" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Large square pieces (b) | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6 1/2" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Small square pieces | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 3 1/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Small square pieces (b) | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Connector pieces | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 3" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Seat boards Or a single 19" x 19" plywood panel. | 5 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 19" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ft Seat back frame and aprons. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2, 8 ft The lattice squares. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x4, 10 ft, or 19x19 plywood panel Seat. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 2x4, 8 ft (or stud) Back legs — pick a straight, light (dry) one with few knots. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in and 2 in | 1 box | ☐ |
| Seat bolts Bolts, not screws — re-tightenable as the joint works. | 1 set | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle | ☐ |
| Finish | 1 quart | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Circular Saw, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft (or stud)
Carefully cut out the shaped back legs with a circular saw or jigsaw, then sand them so the two match each other exactly — mismatched back legs make the chair sit crooked. Transfer the middle seat markings around each leg so you know where the seat lands later.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Speed Square. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, 1x2, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in and 2 in, Wood glue
Build the seat back frame with pocket screws — 2" screws when joining 2x2s, 1-1/4" screws when joining 1x2s, so set your jig accordingly for each. Use glue throughout.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Speed Square. Materials: 1x2, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in and 2 in, Wood glue
This part is tedious and easy to get off square, so go slow. Drill all the pocket holes on the back face (makes filling and sanding easy — or use dowels if staining). Cut all the pieces and dry-arrange them. Screw the larger squares together first, then the smaller squares, then nest the small ones inside the large ones and add the connecting pieces. CHECK FOR SQUARE before the glue dries. Finally, screw the finished lattice to the back of the chair frame and set the back aside.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in and 2 in, Wood glue
Attach the front legs to the front apron with glue and 2" pocket screws. This starts the seat frame.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in and 2 in, Wood glue
Attach the back apron to complete the seat frame, continuing with 2" pocket screws and glue. Check the frame is square and sits flat.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x4, 10 ft, or 19x19 plywood panel, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in and 2 in, Wood glue
If you're using the 1x4 route, join the five 1x4s edge to edge with 1-1/4" pocket screws into a seat panel. Then screw the top to the aprons and front legs. (Or drop in a 19" x 19" plywood panel.)
Tools: Drill / Driver, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Seat bolts, Finish
Attach the seat assembly to the chair back. Use bolts rather than screws here — the plan warns screws can loosen and strip over time, while bolts can simply be re-tightened as the joint works. Sand, fill any holes, and finish.