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This is a modern dining/accent chair defined entirely by its back: a geometric lattice of overlapping 1x2 squares that looks like intricate joinery but is really just a lot of small pocket-screwed frames. It's a beginner-to-intermediate build in terms of technique, but the back is genuinely fiddly — the builder's own note is that it 'isn't hard so much that it is tedious and super easy to get off square.'
The smart workflow for the back: drill every pocket hole on the back face so filling and sanding is easy afterward (or use dowels if you're staining and don't want holes at all). Build the larger squares first, then the smaller ones, then nest the small squares inside the large ones and add the connecting pieces. Check for square constantly and before the glue dries — a lattice that drifts out of square is very visible. Despite looking delicate, the assembled back is strong and holds up fine in 1x2 stock.
The frame itself is conventional: shaped 2x4 back legs cut carefully and sanded to match each other, front legs and aprons joined with pocket screws. The seat is either five 1x4s joined edge to edge or a 19" x 19" plywood panel. For attaching the seat to the back, the plan recommends bolts over screws — bolts can be re-tightened as the joint works over years of use, where screws just strip out.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ftSeat back frame and aprons. | 1 each |
| 1x2, 8 ftThe lattice squares. | 1 each |
| 1x4, 10 ft, or 19x19 plywood panelSeat. | 1 each |
| 2x4, 8 ft (or stud)Back legs — pick a straight, light (dry) one with few knots. | 1 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in and 2 in | 1 box |
| Seat boltsBolts, not screws — re-tightenable as the joint works. | 1 set |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle |
| Finish | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Back legs2x4Cut to the shaped profile; sand the pair to match. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 36" |
| Seat back and aprons2x2 | 6 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 16" |
| Front legs2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17 1/4" |
| Seat back top rail1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16" |
| Large square pieces1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6 7/8" |
| Large square pieces (b)1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6 1/2" |
| Small square pieces1x2 | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 3 1/4" |
| Small square pieces (b)1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" |
| Connector pieces1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 3" |
| Seat boards1x4Or a single 19" x 19" plywood panel. | 5 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 19" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Carefully cut out the shaped back legs with a circular saw or jigsaw, then sand them so the two match each other exactly — mismatched back legs make the chair sit crooked. Transfer the middle seat markings around each leg so you know where the seat lands later.
Build the seat back frame with pocket screws — 2" screws when joining 2x2s, 1-1/4" screws when joining 1x2s, so set your jig accordingly for each. Use glue throughout.
This part is tedious and easy to get off square, so go slow. Drill all the pocket holes on the back face (makes filling and sanding easy — or use dowels if staining). Cut all the pieces and dry-arrange them. Screw the larger squares together first, then the smaller squares, then nest the small ones inside the large ones and add the connecting pieces. CHECK FOR SQUARE before the glue dries. Finally, screw the finished lattice to the back of the chair frame and set the back aside.
Attach the front legs to the front apron with glue and 2" pocket screws. This starts the seat frame.
Attach the back apron to complete the seat frame, continuing with 2" pocket screws and glue. Check the frame is square and sits flat.
If you're using the 1x4 route, join the five 1x4s edge to edge with 1-1/4" pocket screws into a seat panel. Then screw the top to the aprons and front legs. (Or drop in a 19" x 19" plywood panel.)
Attach the seat assembly to the chair back. Use bolts rather than screws here — the plan warns screws can loosen and strip over time, while bolts can simply be re-tightened as the joint works. Sand, fill any holes, and finish.
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