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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Carefully cut out the shaped back legs with a circular saw or jigsaw, then sand them so the two match each other exactly — mismatched back legs make the chair sit crooked. Transfer the middle seat markings around each leg so you know where the seat lands later.
Build the seat back frame with pocket screws — 2" screws when joining 2x2s, 1-1/4" screws when joining 1x2s, so set your jig accordingly for each. Use glue throughout.
This part is tedious and easy to get off square, so go slow. Drill all the pocket holes on the back face (makes filling and sanding easy — or use dowels if staining). Cut all the pieces and dry-arrange them. Screw the larger squares together first, then the smaller squares, then nest the small ones inside the large ones and add the connecting pieces. CHECK FOR SQUARE before the glue dries. Finally, screw the finished lattice to the back of the chair frame and set the back aside.
Attach the front legs to the front apron with glue and 2" pocket screws. This starts the seat frame.
Attach the back apron to complete the seat frame, continuing with 2" pocket screws and glue. Check the frame is square and sits flat.
If you're using the 1x4 route, join the five 1x4s edge to edge with 1-1/4" pocket screws into a seat panel. Then screw the top to the aprons and front legs. (Or drop in a 19" x 19" plywood panel.)
Attach the seat assembly to the chair back. Use bolts rather than screws here — the plan warns screws can loosen and strip over time, while bolts can simply be re-tightened as the joint works. Sand, fill any holes, and finish.