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A 2x6 plank-top farmhouse table on stacked curved-profile leg sets joined by an angled X stretcher — a genuinely different X-brace geometry from this catalog's other X-base tables.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tabletop boards Use this measurement, not the diagram's. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 83 1/2" | 2x6, 8 ft | ☐ |
| Breadboard ends Cut to fit against the trued-up tabletop. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 44" | 2x6, 8 ft | ☐ |
| Curved leg boards, long Long point to long point, ends cut 30° off square, ends not parallel. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 38" | 2x4, 8 ft | ☐ |
| Curved leg boards, mid Long point to long point, ends cut 30° off square, ends not parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 35 1/2" | 2x4, 8 ft | ☐ |
| Curved leg boards, short Long point to long point, ends cut 30° off square, ends not parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 33" | 2x4, 8 ft | ☐ |
| Leg feet | 8 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 20 1/4" | 2x4, 8 ft | ☐ |
| Foot trim | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 36" | 1x4, 8 ft | ☐ |
| Stretcher Measure and cut to fit your leg spacing. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 64" | 2x4, 8 ft | ☐ |
| X center support Long point to short point, both ends cut parallel at 20° off square. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 68 5/8" | 2x4, 8 ft | ☐ |
| X arms Longest point measurement, one end cut inward at 50°, other end inward at 20° off square. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 34" | 2x4, 8 ft | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 2x6, 8 ft | 9 each | ☐ |
| 2x4, 8 ft | 9 each | ☐ |
| 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 150 each | ☐ |
| Brad nails, 2" | 60 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 6 oz | ☐ |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Circular Saw, Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x6, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2"
Build the tabletop without breadboard ends first, using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Run a circular saw with a clamped guide board down the end edges to true up all boards to the same length. For a smoother top, consider tongue and groove boards.
Tools: Circular Saw, Drill / Driver. Materials: 2x6, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2"
Measure and cut the breadboard ends to fit the trued-up tabletop and attach.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Drill Bit Set, Table Saw. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2"
Cut the pattern for the curved edge boards, getting one end right, then use it as a pattern for the rest. Attach the three longest curved boards to the underside of the tabletop, then stack the next row on top, countersinking screws where they'd otherwise show.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, 1x4, 8 ft, Brad nails, 2", Wood glue
Add the second base row to the leg set, then attach the feet and foot trim.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Tape Measure. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2"
Attach the leg sets to the underside of the tabletop. Measure and cut the stretcher to fit the actual leg spacing, then attach with pocket holes underneath.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw, Table Saw. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2"
Cut the X center support at 20° parallel ends, and the two X arms with a 50° cut on one end and a 20° cut on the other. If your saw can't cut 50°, substitute two full-length 2x2s overlapped at a simple angle cut instead. Attach the X assembly to the stretcher and leg sets.
Tools: Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Primer and paint, or stain and poly
Sand all surfaces and apply primer and paint, or stain and poly.