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The farmhouse classic: a planked-top console with X ends and decorative bolt hardware. The X is scribed in place, not cut from a drawing — that's the technique worth learning.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Frame uprights | 12 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 30" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Frame rails | 6 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 1/2" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Shelves | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 63 1/2" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| End supports Cut to match your 1x12's TRUE width — measure first. | 5 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 11 1/4" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Shelf trim | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/4" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| X long diagonals Long point to short point, ends parallel, 60° off square — then scribe-fit in place. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 22 1/2" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| X short pieces Long end 60°, short end 30°, angles same direction — scribe-fit against the installed long diagonal. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/4" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Top planks | 3 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 74 1/2" | 2x6 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ft Frame uprights and X pieces. | 6 each | ☐ |
| 2x4, 8 ft Frame rails and end supports. | 3 each | ☐ |
| 1x12, 12 ft The two shelves. Measure its true width — the end supports are cut to match it. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 2x6, 8 ft The planked top. | 3 each | ☐ |
| Corner hardware and decorative bolts The industrial-farmhouse jewelry. Cosmetic — position by eye after finishing. | 8 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 50 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 30 each | ☐ |
| Wood screws, #9 x 2-1/2" | 20 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 8 oz | ☐ |
| Stain and topcoat | 1 quart | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Speed Square. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, 2x4, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2", Wood glue
Assemble each end frame from 2x2 uprights and 2x4 rails per the diagram — pocket holes on the faces that end up hidden. These frames are the table's whole skeleton; square them carefully.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x12, 12 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4", Wood glue
Before attaching, drill 3/4" pocket holes around all edges of both 1x12 shelves — you'll want them later for the shelf trim, and drilling them now beats drilling inside an assembled table. Then attach the frames to the shelves with 1-1/4" pocket screws.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw, Pocket Hole Jig, Tape Measure. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2"
Measure your 1x12s' actual width and cut the five 2x4 end supports to exactly that — nominal 11-1/4", real boards vary. Attach to the frames and shelves, 1-1/2" pocket holes with 2-1/2" pocket screws into the frames.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
Attach the 2x2 shelf trim using the pocket holes you pre-drilled in step 2, with 1-1/4" screws. The trim thickens the shelf edge visually to match the table's chunky frame.
Tools: Circular Saw, Drill / Driver, Jigsaw, Pencil. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, Wood screws, #9 x 2-1/2", Wood glue
Hold the long diagonal board against its opening and trace the overlaps at both ends. Cut the lines, set it in place — but DON'T attach. Fit the two short pieces against it the same way: place, trace, cut.
Now trace where the shorts meet the long piece, pull everything out, and join the shorts to the long diagonal outside the table. Install the completed X as one unit and fasten. Repeat for the other end.
Scribing beats measuring here because the X inherits your table's true geometry — including every sixteenth it differs from the drawing.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Hammer, Pocket Hole Jig, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 2x6, 8 ft, Corner hardware and decorative bolts, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2", Stain and topcoat
Join the three 2x6 top planks with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket screws (or lay them individually for a more rustic gappy top — both are legitimate), then fasten the top down through the aprons using the same 2-1/2" pocket screws.
Sand, stain, topcoat. Last, the costume: hammer-set the corner hardware and decorative bolts symmetrically at the frame corners. It's fake structure over real screws, and it's what makes people ask where you bought the table.