NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
Use your browser's Print (Ctrl/Cmd + P) and choose Save as PDF. This page works offline once you've opened it with a signal.
A 48" plywood vanity with doors flanking an open center shelf and two drawers. Real casework — carcass, face frame, doors, and inset drawers.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Carcass sides | 2 | 3/4" × 20 1/4" × 35" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Carcass bottom | 1 | 3/4" × 20 1/4" × 46 1/2" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Carcass fixed shelves | 2 | 3/4" × 20 1/4" × 31 1/2" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Center divider shelves | 2 | 3/4" × 20 1/4" × 12 1/2" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Middle adjustable shelf Cut down / notched for plumbing. | 1 | 3/4" × 20 1/4" × 20" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Center vertical dividers | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 12 1/2" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Center bottom rail | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 20" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Back supports | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 20 1/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 35" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame top/bottom rails | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 45" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame center short rails | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 5 3/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame center stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 22 3/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame drawer rail | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 45" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Drawer box front/back | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 5 1/2" | 1x6 | ☐ |
| Drawer box back long | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 18 1/4" | 1x6 | ☐ |
| Door frame stiles 1/2"-thick door frame members; cut from 1x3 ripped down if needed. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Door frame rails | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 9 3/4" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Door center panels | 2 | 1/2" × 10 3/4" × 16" | 1/2" plywood | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood Carcass. Ripped into 20-1/4" wide strips. Birch or maple ply finishes better than sheathing ply. | 1 sheet | ☐ |
| 1/2" plywood A quarter sheet for the door center panels; you'll use a fraction of it. | 1 sheet | ☐ |
| 1/4" plywood A quarter sheet for the drawer bottoms. | 1 sheet | ☐ |
| 1x4, 8 ft (Pine / Hardwood) Carcass nailers and face frame. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2, 8 ft (Pine / Hardwood) Face frame stiles and rails. | 3 each | ☐ |
| 1x6, 4 ft (Pine / Hardwood) Drawer box front/back. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x3, 12 ft (Pine / Hardwood) Door frames. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1/2" x 3-1/2" boards Drawer box sides. Any 1/2" stock ripped to 3-1/2". | 9 linear ft | ☐ |
| Non-mortise hinges | 4 each | ☐ |
| 16" euro drawer slides | 2 pair | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1" and 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 8 oz | ☐ |
| Knobs and pulls | 4 each | ☐ |
| Wood filler and finish |
Tools: Circular Saw, Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Speed Square. Materials: 3/4" plywood, Pocket hole screws, 1" and 1-1/4"
Rip the 3/4" sheet into 20-1/4" wide strips and build the basic box for the vanity with pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket screws. This box is the foundation — check it square across the diagonals and make sure it sits flat, because every part after this references it.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 3/4" plywood, Pocket hole screws, 1" and 1-1/4"
Attach the fixed shelves in the two door bays. If you'd rather have adjustable shelves, drill shelf-pin holes instead.
Tip: if you plan to edge-band the front edges, cut this shelf 1/8" shy at the front so the banding sits flush.
Tools: Circular Saw, Drill / Driver. Materials: 3/4" plywood, 1x4, 8 ft
Build the open center section and make the middle shelf adjustable, cutting it down in size. You'll need to notch or cut its center out to clear the drain and supply lines — do that fitting against the actual rough-in, not a guess. Keeping this shelf removable is what lets a plumber work in there later.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig.
| 1 kit |
| ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Build the face frame as a separate assembly with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket screws, flat on the bench where you can keep it square. Then attach the whole frame to the front of the carcass with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
A face frame built off the cabinet and dropped on as a unit comes out far cleaner than trying to attach stiles and rails one at a time in place.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x2, 8 ft, Brad nails, 1-1/4", Wood glue
Add the back supports using pocket holes on the back side so they don't show. Then install the cleats the drawer slides mount to, attaching them with nails and glue. The cleats have to be dead level and parallel or the drawers will bind.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Tape Measure. Materials: 1/4" plywood, 1x6, 4 ft, 1/2" x 3-1/2" boards, 16" euro drawer slides, Pocket hole screws, 1" and 1-1/4"
Measure your real openings and your slides, then build the drawer boxes to suit — the pictured boxes are 1/2" stock joined with 1/2" pocket holes and 1" pocket screws, with a 1/4" plywood bottom glued and pinned on.
Install the boxes inset 3/4" from the face frame, which leaves room for the drawer faces to sit flush later.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw, Pocket Hole Jig, Tape Measure. Materials: 1/2" plywood, 1x3, 12 ft, Non-mortise hinges
Build the two frame-and-panel doors from the 1x3 frames and 1/2" plywood center panels, and cut the drawer faces, all sized to your actual openings — not the drawing. Hang the doors on the non-mortise hinges and float the drawer faces on the boxes for even reveals.
Making the faces last, to the real gaps, is what gives cabinetry its tight, consistent lines.
Tools: Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Knobs and pulls, Wood filler and finish
Sand everything, fill any holes, and finish with a moisture-tolerant paint or topcoat — this is bathroom furniture and will meet splashes and humidity daily. Add the knobs and pulls last.
The countertop and sink are separate; buy or cut them to the finished 48" base and seal around the basin.