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A slim cottage-style end table with a single drawer, sized for tight spaces beside a sofa or bed. Pocket-hole joinery keeps the drawer square.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Top | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 24" | 1x10 | ☐ |
| Top trim | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 24" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Sides | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 19" | 1x10 | ☐ |
| Back apron Cut to the width of the 1x10. | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 9 1/4" | 1x10 | ☐ |
| Front drawer rails Cut to the width of the 1x10. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Legs | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 24" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Leg blocking / stretchers Use only if you are NOT using a pocket hole jig. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ft (Pine) Legs. Grab a second if you're using screws instead of pocket holes (for aprons). | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x10, 8 ft (Pine) Top, sides, and back apron. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x4, 4 ft (Pine) | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x3, 4 ft (Pine) Top trim. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2, 2 ft (Pine) Front drawer rails. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1/4" plywood Drawer bottom — a scrap is plenty. | 1 sheet | ☐ |
| 16" euro drawer slides The white bottom-corner-mount type. | 1 pair | ☐ |
| Knob or handle | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 4 oz | ☐ |
| Wood filler and finish | 1 kit | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Speed Square. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, 1x10, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
Build the back assembly first — this order lets you get your drill in for the pocket holes before the case closes up. Note the end apron is cut to the width of your actual 1x10, not a nominal number.
Whether you use pocket holes or countersunk screws, check the back for square before moving on. A drawer will not fit a case that isn't square.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Speed Square. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, 1x2, 2 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4", Wood glue
Build the front using the 1x2 drawer rails as shown — these frame the drawer opening. Again, cut them to your real 1x10 width.
If you're not using pocket holes, predrill very carefully from the outside of the legs and use 2-1/2" screws and glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Tape Measure. Materials: 1x10, 8 ft, 16" euro drawer slides, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
Attach the sides to the front and back. Before you do, mount the drawer slides to the side aprons — once the aprons are on the frame there's no clearance to get a drill in. The bottom of the slides sits 2" up from the bottom of the side aprons.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x10, 8 ft, 1x3, 4 ft, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
If you have a pocket hole jig, build the top as a unit and attach. Otherwise add 2x2 blocking and fasten the top from the blocks — finish nails from above or 2" screws from underneath. The 1x10 fits in the center, not crossing the side aprons; set the 1x10 first, then the 1x3 side trim.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Random Orbit Sander, Tape Measure. Materials: 1x10, 8 ft, 1/4" plywood, Knob or handle, Wood filler and finish
Fit the drawer box to the slides, with the fronts of the slides starting at the legs and the box bottom 2" up from the side-apron bottoms. Build the box square (a 1/4" plywood bottom keeps it that way).
Once the drawer runs smoothly, cut a face from the 1x10, position it with an even 1/8" gap all around, and secure it with 1-1/4" screws or finish nails driven from inside the box. Finish, then add the knob.