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A narrow footprint is the whole appeal here — this end table tucks into the gap between a sofa arm and a wall where a normal side table won't fit, and still gives you a drawer for the remote and the clutter.
The drawer is what makes it a real project rather than a box on legs, and it's also where it goes wrong if you're careless. A drawer only fits if the opening is square, so this build leans on pocket-hole joinery precisely because it pulls joints tight and true. Check for square after every single step — a case that's 1/8" out of parallel will bind a drawer that measured perfectly on the bench.
The build order is deliberate: back first, then front, then sides, because that sequence keeps your drill able to reach the pocket holes. And mount the drawer slides to the side aprons before you attach those aprons to the frame — once the case is closed up there's no clearance to get a driver in there. Little sequencing choices like these are the difference between a smooth afternoon and a frustrating one.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ftLegs. Grab a second if you're using screws instead of pocket holes (for aprons). | 1 each |
| 1x10, 8 ftTop, sides, and back apron. | 1 each |
| 1x4, 4 ft | 1 each |
| 1x3, 4 ftTop trim. | 1 each |
| 1x2, 2 ftFront drawer rails. | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywoodDrawer bottom — a scrap is plenty. | 1 sheet |
| 16" euro drawer slidesThe white bottom-corner-mount type. | 1 pair |
| Knob or handle | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Wood filler and finish | 1 kit |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top1x10 | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 24" |
| Top trim1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 24" |
| Sides1x10 | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 19" |
| Back apron1x10Cut to the width of the 1x10. | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 9 1/4" |
| Front drawer rails1x2Cut to the width of the 1x10. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" |
| Legs2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 24" |
| Leg blocking / stretchers2x2Use only if you are NOT using a pocket hole jig. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the back assembly first — this order lets you get your drill in for the pocket holes before the case closes up. Note the end apron is cut to the width of your actual 1x10, not a nominal number.
Whether you use pocket holes or countersunk screws, check the back for square before moving on. A drawer will not fit a case that isn't square.
Build the front using the 1x2 drawer rails as shown — these frame the drawer opening. Again, cut them to your real 1x10 width.
If you're not using pocket holes, predrill very carefully from the outside of the legs and use 2-1/2" screws and glue.
Attach the sides to the front and back. Before you do, mount the drawer slides to the side aprons — once the aprons are on the frame there's no clearance to get a drill in. The bottom of the slides sits 2" up from the bottom of the side aprons.
If you have a pocket hole jig, build the top as a unit and attach. Otherwise add 2x2 blocking and fasten the top from the blocks — finish nails from above or 2" screws from underneath. The 1x10 fits in the center, not crossing the side aprons; set the 1x10 first, then the 1x3 side trim.
Fit the drawer box to the slides, with the fronts of the slides starting at the legs and the box bottom 2" up from the side-apron bottoms. Build the box square (a 1/4" plywood bottom keeps it that way).
Once the drawer runs smoothly, cut a face from the 1x10, position it with an even 1/8" gap all around, and secure it with 1-1/4" screws or finish nails driven from inside the box. Finish, then add the knob.
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