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Step-by-step build — 5 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Build the back assembly first — this order lets you get your drill in for the pocket holes before the case closes up. Note the end apron is cut to the width of your actual 1x10, not a nominal number.
Whether you use pocket holes or countersunk screws, check the back for square before moving on. A drawer will not fit a case that isn't square.
Build the front using the 1x2 drawer rails as shown — these frame the drawer opening. Again, cut them to your real 1x10 width.
If you're not using pocket holes, predrill very carefully from the outside of the legs and use 2-1/2" screws and glue.
Attach the sides to the front and back. Before you do, mount the drawer slides to the side aprons — once the aprons are on the frame there's no clearance to get a drill in. The bottom of the slides sits 2" up from the bottom of the side aprons.
If you have a pocket hole jig, build the top as a unit and attach. Otherwise add 2x2 blocking and fasten the top from the blocks — finish nails from above or 2" screws from underneath. The 1x10 fits in the center, not crossing the side aprons; set the 1x10 first, then the 1x3 side trim.
Fit the drawer box to the slides, with the fronts of the slides starting at the legs and the box bottom 2" up from the side-apron bottoms. Build the box square (a 1/4" plywood bottom keeps it that way).
Once the drawer runs smoothly, cut a face from the 1x10, position it with an even 1/8" gap all around, and secure it with 1-1/4" screws or finish nails driven from inside the box. Finish, then add the knob.