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A plywood box on splayed 10° legs, two drawers on euro slides over an open shelf — a clean mid-century profile with no visible plywood edges.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Legs Both ends cut at 10° off square, ends parallel to each other. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Base side rails Both ends cut at 10° off square, ends NOT parallel to each other. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Base front/back rails | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 13 3/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Box top/bottom | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 21" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Box side | 1 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 19 1/2" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Center shelf/divider | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 18" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Box front/back aprons | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Back panel | 1 | 1/4" × 19 1/2" × 21 3/4" | 1/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Drawer sides | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 14 3/4" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Drawer fronts/backs (box) | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 15 1/2" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Drawer bottoms | 2 | 1/4" × 14 3/4" × 17" | 1/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Drawer faces | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 17 3/4" | 1x6 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, half sheet (4x4) Rip into 15-3/4"-wide pieces for the box top, bottom, and shelf. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1/4" plywood, half sheet Drawer bottoms and the cabinet back. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft (Pine) The four angled legs and base rails. | 2 each | ☐ |
| 1x4 board, 6 ft (Pine) Drawer box sides, fronts, and backs. | 2 each | ☐ |
| 1x6 board, 3 ft (Pine) The two drawer faces — plan assumes a true 5-1/2" wide board. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Bottom-mount euro drawer slides, 14" | 2 pair | ☐ |
| Drawer pulls | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" | 60 each | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" | 60 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Circular Saw, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 3/4" plywood, half sheet (4x4)
Rip the 3/4" plywood into 15-3/4"-wide strips and cross-cut the top, bottom, side, and shelf/divider pieces to length. Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward in the top edges of the front and back aprons now, while they're loose and easy to clamp — you'll use these to attach the box to the base later.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 3/4" plywood, half sheet (4x4), 1/4" plywood, half sheet, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4"
Pocket-screw and glue the top, bottom, side, and center shelf/divider together into a simple box, open on the drawer side. Attach the front and back aprons, then nail the plywood back panel on square — it's what keeps the whole cabinet from racking.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4"
Join the four 10°-angled legs with the side and front/back rails into a base frame. Because the legs splay outward, dry-fit the base and check it sits flat and stable on the floor before you commit any glue — an angled-leg base amplifies small cutting errors more than a square one would.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4"
Set the box on top of the leg base and drive screws up through the pocket holes in the aprons into the base rails.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver. Materials: 1/4" plywood, half sheet, 1x4 board, 6 ft, Bottom-mount euro drawer slides, 14", Finish nails, 1-1/4"
Build two drawer boxes from the 1x4 sides and fronts/backs, glue and nail on the plywood bottoms square. Install the euro slides on both the drawer boxes and inside the cabinet per the hardware's instructions, and hang the drawers — check they roll smoothly before moving on.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 1x6 board, 3 ft, Drawer pulls
With the drawers hung, attach the drawer faces to the fronts of the drawer boxes with screws from inside, using spacers to get an even reveal around each face before driving anything permanent. Add pulls, sand every surface, and finish.