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Traditional cornhole boards are framed in 2x4 with 3/4" plywood tops, and they're boat anchors — 40-plus pounds a pair, which is why they live in the garage instead of getting played. This version swaps the frame to 1x3 (furring strips if you're on a budget) and the deck to 1/2" exterior plywood. The boards still measure the regulation 24" x 48" with a 6" hole; they just don't fight you on the way to the yard.
The legs fold, pivoting on 1/4" bolts with fender washers on both sides and locking nuts. The locking nuts are the detail that matters: a plain nut either works loose (flopping legs) or gets cranked tight (legs won't fold). A nylon-insert lock nut lets you set the pivot friction once and it stays put.
Buy plywood with one smooth face (AC or sanded) — bean bags need to slide, and the difference between a sanded face and sheathing-grade is the difference between a game and an argument. If you paint the decks, finish with a coat or two of water-based poly so the surface is slick and consistent.
The quantities here build a set of two boards; the source doubles everything for a four-board set.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x3, 8 ftFrames and legs. Furring strips are the budget option — pick the straight ones. | 4 each |
| Exterior plywood, 1/2", 48" x 48", one smooth faceAC or sanded grade. Two 24" x 48" project panels also work. | 1 each |
| Exterior deck screws, 1-5/8", star drive, flat headFlat heads sit flush in the deck. | 50 each |
| Exterior bolts, 1/4" x 2"Leg pivots. | 4 each |
| Nylon lock nuts, 1/4"Lock nuts, specifically — they hold the pivot friction where you set it. | 4 each |
| Fender washers, 1/4"One each side of every pivot. | 8 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Bean bags, set of 8Four per color, two colors. Regulation is 6", ~1 lb. | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Frame sides1x3 | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 48" |
| Frame ends and center brace1x3 | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 22 1/2" |
| Legs1x3One end cut at 10° off square (long point measurement), top corners rounded for the fold. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Decks1/2" exterior plywoodA 48x48 sheet cut exactly in half. | 2 | 1/2" × 24" × 48" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Lay out each frame on a flat surface — two 48" sides, an end at each end, and a brace across the middle — and screw the sides into the crosspieces, two screws per joint.
1x3 is thin stock near an end: if a screw starts to split it, stop and pre-drill the rest. A split frame member now is a wobbly board forever.
Mark the pivot centers near the top corners of each frame and drill through with the 1/4" bit.
Press a screw tip into the mark first to make a small dent — it keeps the bit from walking, and a pivot hole that wanders even 1/8" gives you a board that sits crooked on its legs.
Glue and screw each plywood deck to its frame — about a dozen screws around the perimeter, heads pulled flush.
Mark the bag hole: 6" diameter, centered side-to-side, 9" from the top edge to the hole's center. Drill a 1/4" starter hole just inside the line, then cut the circle with the jigsaw, staying on the waste side. Sand the hole edge smooth and round it slightly — bags catch on square edges.
Cut the legs with a 10° angle at the foot end — that's what makes the board sit at regulation height with the foot flat on the grass. No miter saw? Mark 1/2" up from one end, draw the triangle back to the long edge, and cut it with a jigsaw or circular saw.
Round the top corners off each leg so it can rotate inside the frame, and drill the 1/4" pivot hole through the rounded end.
Stack the hardware in this order: bolt head | fender washer | frame side | leg | fender washer | lock nut. Snug the lock nut until the leg swings smoothly but holds its position.
Fold and unfold each leg a few times, then stand both boards 27 feet apart, front edge to front edge, and confirm they sit level. Sand the decks, paint if you like — and topcoat with poly so the bags slide the same on both boards.
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