Lightweight Cornhole Boards

Lay out each frame on a flat surface — two 48" sides, an end at each end, and a brace across the middle — and screw the sides into the crosspieces, two screws per joint.

1x3 is thin stock near an end: if a screw starts to split it, stop and pre-drill the rest. A split frame member now is a wobbly board forever.

Mark the pivot centers near the top corners of each frame and drill through with the 1/4" bit.

Press a screw tip into the mark first to make a small dent — it keeps the bit from walking, and a pivot hole that wanders even 1/8" gives you a board that sits crooked on its legs.

Glue and screw each plywood deck to its frame — about a dozen screws around the perimeter, heads pulled flush.

Mark the bag hole: 6" diameter, centered side-to-side, 9" from the top edge to the hole's center. Drill a 1/4" starter hole just inside the line, then cut the circle with the jigsaw, staying on the waste side. Sand the hole edge smooth and round it slightly — bags catch on square edges.

Cut the legs with a 10° angle at the foot end — that's what makes the board sit at regulation height with the foot flat on the grass. No miter saw? Mark 1/2" up from one end, draw the triangle back to the long edge, and cut it with a jigsaw or circular saw.

Round the top corners off each leg so it can rotate inside the frame, and drill the 1/4" pivot hole through the rounded end.

Stack the hardware in this order: bolt head | fender washer | frame side | leg | fender washer | lock nut. Snug the lock nut until the leg swings smoothly but holds its position.

Fold and unfold each leg a few times, then stand both boards 27 feet apart, front edge to front edge, and confirm they sit level. Sand the decks, paint if you like — and topcoat with poly so the bags slide the same on both boards.