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A king headboard with a built-up wood frame and legs surrounding a padded, fabric-wrapped panel — carpentry and upholstery in one build.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 1 | 3/4" × 40" × 76 1/2" | 3/4" plywood or MDF | ☐ |
| Top and bottom trim (bottom layer) | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 76 1/2" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Side trim (bottom layer) | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 35" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Bottom rail | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 76 1/2" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Legs | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 55 1/4" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Top rail | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 78" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Front of legs | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 14 1/2" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Fabric panel substrate Approximate — dry-fit and trim to the opening, leaving room for foam and fabric. | 1 | 1/2" × 35" × 71 1/2" | 1/2" plywood | ☐ |
| Molding frame Cut to fit the opening, mitered 45° at the corners. | 2 | 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 120" | Store-bought molding | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood or MDF, 4x8 sheet Back panel. Builder's grade is fine; just make sure it's flat. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1/2" plywood, half sheet Fabric panel substrate. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x3 board, 8 ft (Pine) Trim layers, bottom, legs, and top. | 6 each | ☐ |
| 2-1/2" unfinished molding, 10 ft The mitered frame around the panel. | 2 each | ☐ |
| Fabric, 45"+ wide Covers the panel; choose a mid-weight upholstery fabric. | 2.5 yard | ☐ |
| Foam padding 1"–2" foam sized to the panel. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Staples | 100 each | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" and 2" | 80 each | ☐ |
| Wood screws, 1" and 2" 1" to screw the panel to the back; 2" to fasten the headboard to the bed or wall. | 30 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 6 oz | ☐ |
| Wood filler | 4 oz | ☐ |
| Paint, stain, or varnish | 16 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Circular Saw, Tape Measure. Materials: 3/4" plywood or MDF, 4x8 sheet
Cut (or have cut) the 3/4" back to 76-1/2" x 40". Builder's-grade plywood is fine here since it's fully covered, but pick a flat, undamaged sheet — a bowed back telegraphs through everything.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: 1x3 board, 8 ft, Finish nails, 1-1/4" and 2", Wood glue
Fasten the top and bottom trim (1x3 at 76-1/2"), then the side trim, to the back with 1-1/4" nails and glue, keeping outside edges flush. This layer builds the frame's depth.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: 1x3 board, 8 ft, Finish nails, 1-1/4" and 2", Wood glue
Fasten the bottom rail (76-1/2", not the diagram's 82-1/2") with 2" nails and glue into both the back and the trim layer; the front overhangs 1". Add the legs, then the top rail (78", not 84"), nailing into the legs, top trim, and back. Fasten the leg fronts through the sides and to the headboard top.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 2-1/2" unfinished molding, 10 ft, Finish nails, 1-1/4" and 2", Wood glue, Wood filler, Paint, stain, or varnish
Measure and cut the store-bought molding to frame the opening, mitering the corners at 45°. Glue and nail it with 1-1/4" nails. Fill nail holes and any miter gaps, sand, and finish the wood now — before the fabric goes in, so you don't get finish on the upholstery.
Tools: Staple Gun. Materials: 1/2" plywood, half sheet, Fabric, 45"+ wide, Foam padding, Staples, Wood screws, 1" and 2"
Cut the 1/2" panel to about 35" x 71-1/2" and dry-fit it in the opening, leaving clearance for foam and fabric. Lay foam on the panel, wrap the fabric around, and staple it taut on the back — pull corners neatly so they don't bunch. Set the wrapped panel into the opening and screw it to the back from behind with 1" screws.