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A face-framed locker cabinet with a bank of build-to-fit drawers and a charging cubby wired through a drilled back panel.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sides | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 75 1/4" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| Main divider Splits the cabinet into the locker side and the drawer cubby side. | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 75 1/4" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| Top and bottom | 4 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 25 1/2" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| Cubby dividers Measure your 1x8 boards' actual width and cut these to that width plus 1/4" for drawer allowance. | 4 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 7 1/2" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| Fixed shelf | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 36 1/4" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| Bottom shelf | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 27" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| Back panel | 1 | 1/4" × 27" × 76" | 1/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Frame side stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 73 3/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Frame top and bottom rails | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 27" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Frame center rail | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 24" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Drawer sides Cut to fit — treat this as a starting size and trim each drawer to its own opening. | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 10 1/2" | 1x6 | ☐ |
| Drawer fronts and backs Cut to fit. | 3 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 5 3/4" | 1x6 | ☐ |
| Drawer faces Height matches your actual 1x8 board width — cut to fit each opening. | 3 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 7 1/4" | 1x8 | ☐ |
| Drawer bottoms | 3 | 1/4" × 10 1/2" × 7 1/4" | 1/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 1x12 board, 8 ft (Pine) | 3 each | ☐ |
| 1x12 board, 10 ft (Pine) | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x8 board, 2 ft (Pine) | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x6 board, 8 ft (Pine) | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1/4" plywood, full sheet | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft (Pine) | 3 each | ☐ |
| Cabinet knobs | 3 each | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" | 30 each | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" | 80 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 6 oz | ☐ |
| Coat hooks | 3 each | ☐ |
| Wall anchors or lag screws (to secure to a stud) | 2 each | ☐ |
| Candle wax Rubbed on drawer bottoms after finishing for a smooth slide. | 1 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x12 board, 8 ft, 1x12 board, 10 ft
If you get this box built square and right, your drawers will slide great — take your time, mark all your joints, and check for square at least twice. Measure the actual width of your 1x8 boards to get your drawer face heights, add 1/4" to that number, and cut your cubby dividers to that width for well-fitting drawers.
If you don't have a pocket-hole jig, add the main divider (next step) before assembling the box — you won't be able to fit a drill in there afterward.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x12 board, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4", Wood glue
Attach the main locker divider with 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws and glue, or with countersunk screws or nails and glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x12 board, 8 ft, 1x12 board, 10 ft, Wood glue
Add the sides, top, and bottom shelf using the pocket-hole jig or just screws or nails and glue — the whole box is face framed, so every joint is reinforced.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: 1/4" plywood, full sheet, Finish nails, 1-1/4", Wood glue
Attach the back panel to all the fixed shelves with glue and 1-1/4" finish nails.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft, Wood glue
Attach the face frame stiles and rails to the front of the cabinet, keeping every joint flush and square.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft
Add the top and bottom trim to the cabinet.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft
Add the crown trim to finish the top of the cabinet.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver, Drill Bit Set. Materials: 1x6 board, 8 ft, 1/4" plywood, full sheet, Finish nails, 1-1/4", Candle wax
The trick with these drawers is building each one to fit its own opening. For a first attempt, leave about 1/8" clearance on each side; if you're confident in your cuts, 1/16" gives a tighter fit. Tack the plywood bottom onto each drawer box. For the charging drawer, drill a hole through the back panel to route a cable through.
Each drawer opening may be slightly different, so build and fit each drawer to its own cubby rather than to a single measurement. Rub candle wax on the drawer bottoms after finishing for the smoothest slide.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver. Materials: 1x8 board, 2 ft, Cabinet knobs, Finish nails, 1-1/4"
Slide each drawer box into its cubby. Cut the drawer faces to fit and position them over the drawer boxes, then nail on and add the knobs.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Coat hooks, Wall anchors or lag screws (to secure to a stud)
Add the coat hooks. This cabinet is tall and top-heavy — secure it to a wall stud behind it with wall anchors or lag screws to prevent tipping before it's used.