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A bunk bed framed like a deck: 4x4 posts, 2x8 rails, pocket-hole joinery throughout. Sized here for twin, with full and queen dimensions in the notes.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Corner posts 72" if your stock allows for the kerf. All four must match exactly. | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 71 3/4" | 4x4 | ☐ |
| End and headboard rails 50" full, 56" queen. | 5 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 35" | 2x8 | ☐ |
| End blocking Or rip 1-1/2" x 2" strips from a 2x6. 50" full, 56" queen. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 35" | — | ☐ |
| Ladder-end slat filler The 19" sets the ladder opening — adjust if your ladder differs. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 19" | 2x8 | ☐ |
| Ladder-end post Drawn as a 4x4 in the plans; the source build used a 2x4 and it's fine. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 11" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Ladder-end blocking filler | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 19" | — | ☐ |
| Headboard enclosure panel 50" wide full, 56" queen. | 1 | 3/4" × 35" × 47 1/4" | Tongue-and-groove or plywood | ☐ |
| Side rails 80" for queen. | 6 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 75" | 2x8 | ☐ |
| Inner cleats 80" for queen. Full/queen also add two middle cleats (78-1/2"/83-1/2"). | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 75" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Bed slats 54" full, 60" queen. | 24 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 39" | 1x3 furring | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 4x4 post, 12 ft The four corner posts. Pick the straightest two on the rack — sight down each one. | 2 each | ☐ |
| 2x8, 10 ft All the rails. Cut the longest pieces first so a bad knot doesn't strand you. Full/queen want 12-footers. | 6 each | ☐ |
| 2x4, 8 ft Slat cleats and the ladder-end post. Full/queen need 6. | 4 each | ☐ |
| 2x2, 8 ft End blocking. The source ripped 2" strips from a 2x6 instead — cleaner grain, same job. | 2 each | ☐ |
| Paneling, 3/4", 47-1/4" x 35" Headboard enclosure — tongue-and-groove boards, plywood, or shiplap. 50" wide for full, 56" for queen. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x3 furring strip, 8 ft Bed slats for both bunks. Full/queen use 24 shorter pieces (54"/60"). | 12 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" About 75 for full/queen. | 50 each | ☐ |
| Self-tapping screws, #9 x 2-1/2", star drive | 100 each | ☐ |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4", 18 ga Attaching the headboard paneling. | 100 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 8 oz | ☐ |
| Stain and topcoat Finish all parts before final assembly. | 2 quart | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Tape Measure. Materials: 4x4 post, 12 ft, 2x8, 10 ft, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2"
Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes in both ends of the end-rail slats and join them to two posts with 2-1/2" pocket screws — two per end. This ladder-of-rails panel is the open footboard end.
Build one per bunk bed, and decide NOW which face of each post is the wall side: every pocket hole in the whole build should land there.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, Self-tapping screws, #9 x 2-1/2", star drive
Fill between the rails with the 1-1/2" x 2" blocking strips. It's listed as optional trim, but treat it as required on a kids' bed — the blocking closes the gaps between rails to a size feet and hands don't go through, and it stiffens the panel.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 4x4 post, 12 ft, 2x8, 10 ft, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2"
Build the headboard end the same way as the footboard, but leave the top slat off for now — the paneling in step 5 needs the opening.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Tape Measure. Materials: 2x8, 10 ft, 2x4, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2", Self-tapping screws, #9 x 2-1/2", star drive
Add the short post, the 19" slat filler, and its blocking to create the ladder opening. The source build substituted a 2x4 for the drawn 4x4 here — do the same, nobody can tell.
The 19" width only matters if you're matching a specific ladder or stair unit; if you are, get that dimension from the ladder first. Pocket screws where the jig fits, 2-1/2" self-tapping screws where it doesn't.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: Paneling, 3/4", 47-1/4" x 35", Brad nails, 1-1/4", 18 ga
Fill the headboard frame with your paneling — tongue-and-groove laid out and brad-nailed, or a plywood sheet. This is the surface a kid leans against to read; pick material you'd want painted or stained, not sheathing.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 2x8, 10 ft, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2", Stain and topcoat
Sand and stain every part now, before assembly — the inside corners of an assembled bunk bed are unreachable.
In the bedroom, attach the six side rails to the end panels with THREE 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket screws per rail end, pocket holes on the wall side. Two people, minimum: one holds a 75" 2x8 level while the other drives.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2", Self-tapping screws, #9 x 2-1/2", star drive
Attach the 2x4 cleats to the inside of the rails — pocket screws into the posts at the ends, 2-1/2" self-tapping screws into the rails along the length.
A twin skips the middle cleat. Full and queen need it: set its top edge flush with the side cleats' top edges, pocket-screwed into the end panels. Every pound on the mattress lands on these cleats; be generous with screws.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 1x3 furring strip, 8 ft, Self-tapping screws, #9 x 2-1/2", star drive
Lay the 1x3 slats across the cleats and screw each end down — one screw per joint is enough, and screws beat nails here for one specific reason: a nail that works its way proud under a mattress becomes a spike you find with bedding, or worse. Screws stay put and back out cleanly if a slat ever needs replacing.
Before anyone sleeps up top: add a guardrail on the open sides of the upper bunk and fix the ladder in place. That's not this cut list, but it is this project.