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Most bunk bed plans are 2x4s pretending to be furniture. This one is framed like a structure — 4x4 corner posts, 2x8 rails, and slats on 2x4 cleats — because the design brief for a bunk bed is 'two kids, jumping, forever,' and 1-1/2" of pine post does not meet it. The result is heavy, and that's a feature: this bed does not sway, and it will survive being moved between three houses.
The joinery is pocket holes into the posts. It's the right call here: fast, strong in shear (which is what a bed frame sees), and completely hidden if you plan which faces they land on. Do what the source build did and put every pocket hole on the wall-facing side — decide which side that is before you drill anything.
The cut list below is the twin; full and queen change only the widths of the end rails, blocking, paneling, and slats, and add a middle cleat under the wider spans — those numbers ride along in the notes. One honest warning about scale: the assembled end panels are over 71" tall, and final assembly happens in the bedroom, not the shop. Stain and finish everything BEFORE final assembly, or you'll be cutting in stain against carpet and drywall.
Buy or make a guardrail for the top bunk and a ladder to reach it — this plan covers the bed itself, and no bunk goes into service for kids without both.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 4x4 post, 12 ftThe four corner posts. Pick the straightest two on the rack — sight down each one. | 2 each |
| 2x8, 10 ftAll the rails. Cut the longest pieces first so a bad knot doesn't strand you. Full/queen want 12-footers. | 6 each |
| 2x4, 8 ftSlat cleats and the ladder-end post. Full/queen need 6. | 4 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftEnd blocking. The source ripped 2" strips from a 2x6 instead — cleaner grain, same job. | 2 each |
| Paneling, 3/4", 47-1/4" x 35"Headboard enclosure — tongue-and-groove boards, plywood, or shiplap. 50" wide for full, 56" for queen. | 1 each |
| 1x3 furring strip, 8 ftBed slats for both bunks. Full/queen use 24 shorter pieces (54"/60"). | 12 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2"About 75 for full/queen. | 50 each |
| Self-tapping screws, #9 x 2-1/2", star drive | 100 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4", 18 gaAttaching the headboard paneling. | 100 each |
| Wood glue | 8 oz |
| Stain and topcoatFinish all parts before final assembly. | 2 quart |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Corner posts4x472" if your stock allows for the kerf. All four must match exactly. | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 71 3/4" |
| End and headboard rails2x850" full, 56" queen. | 5 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 35" |
| End blockingOr rip 1-1/2" x 2" strips from a 2x6. 50" full, 56" queen. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 35" |
| Ladder-end slat filler2x8The 19" sets the ladder opening — adjust if your ladder differs. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 19" |
| Ladder-end post2x4Drawn as a 4x4 in the plans; the source build used a 2x4 and it's fine. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 11" |
| Ladder-end blocking filler | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 19" |
| Headboard enclosure panelTongue-and-groove or plywood50" wide full, 56" queen. | 1 | 3/4" × 35" × 47 1/4" |
| Side rails2x880" for queen. | 6 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 75" |
| Inner cleats2x480" for queen. Full/queen also add two middle cleats (78-1/2"/83-1/2"). | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 75" |
| Bed slats1x3 furring54" full, 60" queen. | 24 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 39" |
Buy 32 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
9 boards
Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes in both ends of the end-rail slats and join them to two posts with 2-1/2" pocket screws — two per end. This ladder-of-rails panel is the open footboard end.
Build one per bunk bed, and decide NOW which face of each post is the wall side: every pocket hole in the whole build should land there.
Fill between the rails with the 1-1/2" x 2" blocking strips. It's listed as optional trim, but treat it as required on a kids' bed — the blocking closes the gaps between rails to a size feet and hands don't go through, and it stiffens the panel.
Build the headboard end the same way as the footboard, but leave the top slat off for now — the paneling in step 5 needs the opening.
Add the short post, the 19" slat filler, and its blocking to create the ladder opening. The source build substituted a 2x4 for the drawn 4x4 here — do the same, nobody can tell.
The 19" width only matters if you're matching a specific ladder or stair unit; if you are, get that dimension from the ladder first. Pocket screws where the jig fits, 2-1/2" self-tapping screws where it doesn't.
Fill the headboard frame with your paneling — tongue-and-groove laid out and brad-nailed, or a plywood sheet. This is the surface a kid leans against to read; pick material you'd want painted or stained, not sheathing.
Sand and stain every part now, before assembly — the inside corners of an assembled bunk bed are unreachable.
In the bedroom, attach the six side rails to the end panels with THREE 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket screws per rail end, pocket holes on the wall side. Two people, minimum: one holds a 75" 2x8 level while the other drives.
Attach the 2x4 cleats to the inside of the rails — pocket screws into the posts at the ends, 2-1/2" self-tapping screws into the rails along the length.
A twin skips the middle cleat. Full and queen need it: set its top edge flush with the side cleats' top edges, pocket-screwed into the end panels. Every pound on the mattress lands on these cleats; be generous with screws.
Lay the 1x3 slats across the cleats and screw each end down — one screw per joint is enough, and screws beat nails here for one specific reason: a nail that works its way proud under a mattress becomes a spike you find with bedding, or worse. Screws stay put and back out cleanly if a slat ever needs replacing.
Before anyone sleeps up top: add a guardrail on the open sides of the upper bunk and fix the ladder in place. That's not this cut list, but it is this project.
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12 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →