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A narrow 6" base cabinet that fills a gap in a fitted kitchen run without wasting space to a standard-width face frame.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Side panels Must match the side-panel dimensions of every other base cabinet in the run exactly. | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 34 1/2" | Plywood, 3/4", finished, sheet | ☐ |
| Shelves Bottom shelf plus one optional center shelf. | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 4 1/2" | Plywood, 3/4", finished, sheet | ☐ |
| Bottom supports | 2 | 3/4" × 5" × 4 1/2" | Plywood, 3/4", cheaper grade | ☐ |
| Top supports Width can vary. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 4 1/2" | Plywood, 3/4", finished, sheet | ☐ |
| Back | 1 | 1/4" × 32" × 6" | Plywood, 1/4" | ☐ |
| Face frame stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 27" | Poplar, 1x1, 6 ft | ☐ |
| Face frame top/bottom rails | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6" | Pine, 1x2, 2 ft | ☐ |
| Shelf trim | 1 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 4 1/2" | Poplar, 1x1, 6 ft | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", finished, sheet Sides, shelves, and top supports — ripped into strips. | 20 sq ft | ☐ |
| Plywood, 3/4", cheaper grade Bottom supports, hidden from view. | 4 sq ft | ☐ |
| Plywood, 1/4" Back panel. | 2 sq ft | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x2, 2 ft Top/bottom face frame rails — only about a foot is needed. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Poplar, 1x1, 6 ft Ripped to 3/4" x 3/4" for the narrow stiles and shelf trim. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood screws, 2" Attaches the shelves from outside the carcass. | 1 box | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Edge banding | 1 roll | ☐ |
| Frameless concealed hinges, 1/2" overlay Not interchangeable with the standard 1-1/4" overlay hinges used elsewhere in the run — this cabinet's narrower frame requires the 1/2" overlay spec. | 1 pair | ☐ |
| Drawer face | 1 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Table Saw. Materials: Plywood, 3/4", finished, sheet
If you're building a full kitchen, make sure every cabinet in the run comes from the same matched collection of plans — this filler cabinet is designed to sit alongside the rest of a specific base-cabinet system, and the sides must be identical to line up. This particular cabinet has no adjustable shelves, so skip drilling shelf-pin holes. Cut the two sides as true mirror images, with the face-frame pocket holes on the outside faces, and make sure every toekick across your whole run is cut to the same height.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Table Saw. Materials: Plywood, 3/4", cheaper grade
Rip strips 5" wide from cheaper plywood — this is hidden underneath the cabinet — and cut to length. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the outsides for easy drill access, plus a second set of 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the bottom shelf. Attach with 1-1/4" pocket screws.
Use the leftover finished-plywood strip from ripping the sides for the top supports, since they may be visible through the narrow opening — ours came out about 3-1/2" wide, but 1x boards work too and the width isn't critical.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Wood screws, 2"
Attach the shelves from the outside of the carcass with countersunk 2" wood screws — there's no room to reach a drill inside a cabinet this narrow.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Table Saw. Materials: Pine, 1x2, 2 ft, Poplar, 1x1, 6 ft
Because this cabinet is so narrow, a standard overhanging face frame would waste real storage space — rip poplar down to 1x1 (3/4" x 3/4") for the stiles and shelf trim instead, keeping the top and bottom rails as 1x2 to match the rest of the kitchen. Build the face frame with one 3/4" pocket hole per end of each 1x1, 1-1/4" pocket screws, and glue. Attach the completed frame through the pocket holes already drilled in the sides and top support.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Plywood, 1/4", Edge banding
Attach the back panel with finish nails and glue, edge-band any visible shelf fronts, and sand the whole assembly.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Frameless concealed hinges, 1/2" overlay, Drawer face
Because the face frame here is narrower than standard, this cabinet needs a 1/2" overlay drawer face rather than the usual 1-1/4" overlay — and a hinge rated for frameless cabinets, since the mounting bracket differs from a standard face-frame hinge. When ordering, match the overall drawer-face height to the rest of your cabinets so the 1/2" reveal between all doors and drawers stays consistent across the kitchen.