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A cabinet this narrow can't afford the same face frame as its wider neighbors — a standard overhanging frame would eat a big share of an already-tiny interior. The fix here is to rip 1x1 stiles instead of using 1x2 stock, which keeps the frame from eating into the storage space while still matching the top and bottom rail width of the rest of the run.
That narrower frame has a real consequence: the door needs a 1/2" overlay instead of the standard 1-1/4" overlay used on every other cabinet in the kitchen, which means a different, frameless-rated concealed hinge — not a swap you can make after the fact without buying different hardware. Get the door and hinge spec right before you order, and double-check the finished door height against your other cabinets so the 1/2" reveal stays consistent across the whole run.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", finished, sheetSides, shelves, and top supports — ripped into strips. | 20 sq ft |
| Plywood, 3/4", cheaper gradeBottom supports, hidden from view. | 4 sq ft |
| Plywood, 1/4"Back panel. | 2 sq ft |
| Pine, 1x2, 2 ftTop/bottom face frame rails — only about a foot is needed. | 1 each |
| Poplar, 1x1, 6 ftRipped to 3/4" x 3/4" for the narrow stiles and shelf trim. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood screws, 2"Attaches the shelves from outside the carcass. | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box |
| Edge banding | 1 roll |
| Frameless concealed hinges, 1/2" overlayNot interchangeable with the standard 1-1/4" overlay hinges used elsewhere in the run — this cabinet's narrower frame requires the 1/2" overlay spec. | 1 pair |
| Drawer face | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side panelsPlywood, 3/4", finished, sheetMust match the side-panel dimensions of every other base cabinet in the run exactly. | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 34 1/2" |
| ShelvesPlywood, 3/4", finished, sheetBottom shelf plus one optional center shelf. | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 4 1/2" |
| Bottom supportsPlywood, 3/4", cheaper grade | 2 | 3/4" × 5" × 4 1/2" |
| Top supportsPlywood, 3/4", finished, sheetWidth can vary. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 4 1/2" |
| BackPlywood, 1/4" | 1 | 1/4" × 32" × 6" |
| Face frame stilesPoplar, 1x1, 6 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 27" |
| Face frame top/bottom railsPine, 1x2, 2 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6" |
| Shelf trimPoplar, 1x1, 6 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 4 1/2" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
If you're building a full kitchen, make sure every cabinet in the run comes from the same matched collection of plans — this filler cabinet is designed to sit alongside the rest of a specific base-cabinet system, and the sides must be identical to line up. This particular cabinet has no adjustable shelves, so skip drilling shelf-pin holes. Cut the two sides as true mirror images, with the face-frame pocket holes on the outside faces, and make sure every toekick across your whole run is cut to the same height.
Rip strips 5" wide from cheaper plywood — this is hidden underneath the cabinet — and cut to length. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the outsides for easy drill access, plus a second set of 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the bottom shelf. Attach with 1-1/4" pocket screws.
Use the leftover finished-plywood strip from ripping the sides for the top supports, since they may be visible through the narrow opening — ours came out about 3-1/2" wide, but 1x boards work too and the width isn't critical.
Attach the shelves from the outside of the carcass with countersunk 2" wood screws — there's no room to reach a drill inside a cabinet this narrow.
Because this cabinet is so narrow, a standard overhanging face frame would waste real storage space — rip poplar down to 1x1 (3/4" x 3/4") for the stiles and shelf trim instead, keeping the top and bottom rails as 1x2 to match the rest of the kitchen. Build the face frame with one 3/4" pocket hole per end of each 1x1, 1-1/4" pocket screws, and glue. Attach the completed frame through the pocket holes already drilled in the sides and top support.
Attach the back panel with finish nails and glue, edge-band any visible shelf fronts, and sand the whole assembly.
Because the face frame here is narrower than standard, this cabinet needs a 1/2" overlay drawer face rather than the usual 1-1/4" overlay — and a hinge rated for frameless cabinets, since the mounting bracket differs from a standard face-frame hinge. When ordering, match the overall drawer-face height to the rest of your cabinets so the 1/2" reveal between all doors and drawers stays consistent across the kitchen.
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