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A topless plywood-free media console — a solid 1x12 box with front and back face frames doing double duty as the top and bottom trim.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 52 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Sides | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 21 1/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Face frame stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 51 3/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Face frame rails | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 51 3/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Face frame center dividers | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 21 3/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Face frame lower rail | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 1/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Middle shelves | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 17 3/4" | Pine | ☐ |
| Middle shelf dividers | 3 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 17" | Pine | ☐ |
| Back panel | 1 | 1/4" × 21 1/4" × 54 3/4" | Plywood | ☐ |
| Top | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 57 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Top trim, front | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 57 1/2" | Pine | ☐ |
| Door stiles | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16" | Pine | ☐ |
| Door rails | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 11" | Pine | ☐ |
| Door slats 11" exposed length per door grid opening. | 24 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 11" | Pine | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 8 ft | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x12, 6 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x1 moulding, 8 ft Door slats. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheet Back panel. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Surface-mount cabinet hinges | 3 set | ☐ |
| Cabinet knobs | 3 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 6 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x12, 8 ft, Wood glue
Build the box from the bottom and two side pieces. Because a top panel isn't used to hold the box square, you'll need to be extra attentive to make sure the face frames go on square in the steps ahead — there's nothing else keeping the carcass rigid until they're attached.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x2, 8 ft, Wood glue
Build the back face frame first as its own assembly, then attach it to the back of the box.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x2, 8 ft, Wood glue
Build the front face frame the same way and attach it to the front. Both face frames extend past the ends of the box by 3/8" — this overhang is intentional and gets trimmed out with moulding later, so don't try to make them flush.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x12, 8 ft, Wood glue
Set the middle dividers in place inside the cabinet and drill 3/4" pocket holes around the bottom and side edges of each. Attach with glue and screws.
Attach the plywood back panel over the rear face frame.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig.
Build the top as its own assembly first, then attach it to the cabinet with equal overhangs on the ends and front.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x3, 8 ft, Pine, 1x1 moulding, 8 ft, Surface-mount cabinet hinges, Cabinet knobs
Build each door frame from stiles and rails and check it dead square before you add anything else — any racking here will throw off the slat spacing visibly across the whole door. Once square, install the 1x1 slats evenly across the opening, then hang the finished doors on the cabinet front with surface-mount hinges. Add the cabinet knobs to finish.