NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
The material-saving move in this build is skipping a separate top panel entirely: the front and back face frames extend slightly past the sides, and a trimmed-out cap piece sits on top afterward, so there's no wasted plywood or extra top panel to buy. That efficiency comes with a catch — without a solid top panel to lock the box square, you have to be extra careful getting the face frames on true, since there's nothing else holding the carcass rigid until they're on.
The slatted doors are the other real feature here: a grid of 1x1 slats inside a 1x3 frame, which reads as a much more custom, higher-end look than a flat panel door for not much more material. Build the door frames dead square before you add slats, because any racking in the frame will throw off the slat spacing visibly.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x12, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x1 moulding, 8 ftDoor slats. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheetBack panel. | 1 each |
| Surface-mount cabinet hinges | 3 set |
| Cabinet knobs | 3 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| BottomPine | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 52 1/2" |
| SidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 21 1/4" |
| Face frame stilesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 51 3/4" |
| Face frame railsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 51 3/4" |
| Face frame center dividersPine | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 21 3/4" |
| Face frame lower railPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 1/4" |
| Middle shelvesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 17 3/4" |
| Middle shelf dividersPine | 3 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 17" |
| Back panelPlywood | 1 | 1/4" × 21 1/4" × 54 3/4" |
| TopPine | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 57 1/2" |
| Top trim, frontPine | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 57 1/2" |
| Door stilesPine | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16" |
| Door railsPine | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 11" |
| Door slatsPine11" exposed length per door grid opening. | 24 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 11" |
Buy 15 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
2 boards
Build the box from the bottom and two side pieces. Because a top panel isn't used to hold the box square, you'll need to be extra attentive to make sure the face frames go on square in the steps ahead — there's nothing else keeping the carcass rigid until they're attached.
Build the back face frame first as its own assembly, then attach it to the back of the box.
Build the front face frame the same way and attach it to the front. Both face frames extend past the ends of the box by 3/8" — this overhang is intentional and gets trimmed out with moulding later, so don't try to make them flush.
Set the middle dividers in place inside the cabinet and drill 3/4" pocket holes around the bottom and side edges of each. Attach with glue and screws.
Attach the plywood back panel over the rear face frame.
Build the top as its own assembly first, then attach it to the cabinet with equal overhangs on the ends and front.
Build each door frame from stiles and rails and check it dead square before you add anything else — any racking here will throw off the slat spacing visibly across the whole door. Once square, install the 1x1 slats evenly across the opening, then hang the finished doors on the cabinet front with surface-mount hinges. Add the cabinet knobs to finish.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.
3 boards
3 boards
3 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →