NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
Use your browser's Print (Ctrl/Cmd + P) and choose Save as PDF. This page works offline once you've opened it with a signal.
A 24"-wide base cabinet carcass built from a single ripped plywood strip per side, with a scrap-plywood top support and a face frame sized to give a run of cabinets room to align on an imperfect wall.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sides Notch out the toe kick with a jigsaw before assembly. | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/2" × 34 1/2" | Cabinet-grade plywood, ripped to 22-1/2" | ☐ |
| Bottom shelf Carcass width is 1/2" less than the 24" finished cabinet width. | 1 | 3/4" × 22 1/2" × 23 1/2" | Cabinet-grade plywood, ripped to 22-1/2" | ☐ |
| Front top support | 1 | 3/4" × 3" × 23 1/2" | Plywood scrap or 1x4 | ☐ |
| Back top support Also used to hang the cabinet on the wall and to square the back. | 1 | 3/4" × 3" × 23 1/2" | Plywood scrap or 1x4 | ☐ |
| Face frame stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 34 1/2" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| Face frame rails Face frame is 24" wide overall — 1/2" wider than the carcass, giving alignment room across a run of cabinets. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 21 1/2" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", ripped to 22-1/2" strips, 4x8 sheet | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft, or plywood scrap, for supports | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 2 each | ☐ |
| Plywood, 1/4", for backs and end panels Also used to finish exposed cabinet ends and the toe kick after installation. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 2 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Circular Saw, Drill / Driver, Jigsaw, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", ripped to 22-1/2" strips, 4x8 sheet
Rip a full sheet of plywood into 22-1/2"-wide strips, saving the leftover scrap for the top supports or corner bracing. Cross-cut two 34-1/2" side panels from the strips and notch out the toe kick with a jigsaw. If you want pocket-hole face frame attachment, drill 3/4" pocket holes on the inside front edges of the sides now.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", ripped to 22-1/2" strips, 4x8 sheet, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
Cut the bottom shelf from the ripped strips, remembering the carcass runs 1/2" narrower than the desired finished cabinet width. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on its 22-1/2"-long sides and attach to the side panels with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward on the underside of the bottom shelf for attaching the face frame later.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x4, 8 ft, or plywood scrap, for supports, Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"
Use a scrap plywood strip for the front top support. This squares up the cabinet and gives you something to attach countertop plywood to later — it gets covered in a later step, so it doesn't need to look pretty. Drill 3/4" pocket holes and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws; also drill pocket holes facing forward for the face frame if using that attachment method.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig.
Add the back top support the same way, again using scrap plywood if you have it. This board is what you'll screw into a wall stud to hang the cabinet, and it also squares up the back. You can attach the back panel now or wait until after drawers or shelves are installed, whichever is easier.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Pine, 1x2, 8 ft, Wood glue
Build the face frame from the stiles and rails with pocket holes and glue. If the wood is splitting, set your jig for 1/2" stock and use 1" pocket hole screws instead. The face frame runs 1/2" wider than the carcass — this gives you room to line up face frames perfectly across a run of cabinets, even on an imperfect wall.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: Plywood, 1/4", for backs and end panels
Attach the finished face frame to the front of the carcass. For any cabinet end that will be exposed, finish it with 1/4" plywood matched to your face frame species — useful if you're using a lower-cost sheet good for the carcass and a nicer hardwood for the visible face frame and doors.
Tools: Random Orbit Sander
Sand every visible surface. Leave a 1/2" reveal gap between doors and drawers on the same cabinet, and 1/4" per cabinet between neighboring cabinets, when it comes time to hang doors.