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Each side panel is cut as one full-height piece with the toe kick notched directly out of it, rather than built from a separate box plus a separate toe-kick assembly — a toe-kick pattern block, used to trace the same notch onto every side panel in a run, is what keeps that cut identical across multiple cabinets built from the same plan.
The face frame is cut 1/2" wider than the carcass underneath it on purpose — the source plan's own reasoning is that this gives real wiggle room when a whole run of cabinets goes in against a wall that isn't perfectly flat or square, letting the face frames line up perfectly even when the carcasses behind them can't quite match. The scrap plywood strips left over from ripping the sides and shelves aren't waste — they become the top support that squares up the back of the cabinet and gives the countertop plywood something solid to attach to later.
This file works out one specific 24"-wide cabinet as a concrete example — the source plan is a general carcass-building method meant to scale to whatever cabinet width a kitchen run actually needs, so treat these dimensions as a worked example, not a fixed size.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Cabinet-grade plywood, 3/4", ripped to 22-1/2" strips, 4x8 sheet | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft, or plywood scrap, for supports | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", for backs and end panelsAlso used to finish exposed cabinet ends and the toe kick after installation. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesCabinet-grade plywood, ripped to 22-1/2"Notch out the toe kick with a jigsaw before assembly. | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/2" × 34 1/2" |
| Bottom shelfCabinet-grade plywood, ripped to 22-1/2"Carcass width is 1/2" less than the 24" finished cabinet width. | 1 | 3/4" × 22 1/2" × 23 1/2" |
| Front top supportPlywood scrap or 1x4 | 1 | 3/4" × 3" × 23 1/2" |
| Back top supportPlywood scrap or 1x4Also used to hang the cabinet on the wall and to square the back. | 1 | 3/4" × 3" × 23 1/2" |
| Face frame stilesPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 34 1/2" |
| Face frame railsPine 1x2Face frame is 24" wide overall — 1/2" wider than the carcass, giving alignment room across a run of cabinets. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
Buy 4 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Rip a full sheet of plywood into 22-1/2"-wide strips, saving the leftover scrap for the top supports or corner bracing. Cross-cut two 34-1/2" side panels from the strips and notch out the toe kick with a jigsaw. If you want pocket-hole face frame attachment, drill 3/4" pocket holes on the inside front edges of the sides now.
Cut the bottom shelf from the ripped strips, remembering the carcass runs 1/2" narrower than the desired finished cabinet width. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on its 22-1/2"-long sides and attach to the side panels with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward on the underside of the bottom shelf for attaching the face frame later.
Use a scrap plywood strip for the front top support. This squares up the cabinet and gives you something to attach countertop plywood to later — it gets covered in a later step, so it doesn't need to look pretty. Drill 3/4" pocket holes and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws; also drill pocket holes facing forward for the face frame if using that attachment method.
Add the back top support the same way, again using scrap plywood if you have it. This board is what you'll screw into a wall stud to hang the cabinet, and it also squares up the back. You can attach the back panel now or wait until after drawers or shelves are installed, whichever is easier.
Build the face frame from the stiles and rails with pocket holes and glue. If the wood is splitting, set your jig for 1/2" stock and use 1" pocket hole screws instead. The face frame runs 1/2" wider than the carcass — this gives you room to line up face frames perfectly across a run of cabinets, even on an imperfect wall.
Attach the finished face frame to the front of the carcass. For any cabinet end that will be exposed, finish it with 1/4" plywood matched to your face frame species — useful if you're using a lower-cost sheet good for the carcass and a nicer hardwood for the visible face frame and doors.
Sand every visible surface. Leave a 1/2" reveal gap between doors and drawers on the same cabinet, and 1/4" per cabinet between neighboring cabinets, when it comes time to hang doors.
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