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The jig that makes every other project accurate. Built from scrap in an afternoon, using the five-cut method.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sled base | 1 | 1/2" × 27" × 20" | Baltic Birch Plywood | ☐ |
| Rear fence (the important one) Laminate two pieces of 3/4" for stiffness. This fence is your accuracy — it must be dead straight and stay that way. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 27" | Maple | ☐ |
| Front fence Structural only — it holds the two halves of the sled together after the blade cuts through. It does not need to be square. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 27" | Maple | ☐ |
| Runners Measure YOUR miter slots. They are not all 3/4". | 2 | 3/8" × 3/4" × 24" | Maple or UHMW | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Baltic birch plywood, 1/2", for the base Baltic birch, not construction ply. It's flat, it stays flat, and flatness is the entire point of the jig. | 0.25 sheet | ☐ |
| Hardwood, 3/4", for the fences (Maple) Must be straight and stay straight. A bowed rear fence makes a bowed cut. | 3 board feet | ☐ |
| Hardwood or UHMW for runners Sized to slide in your miter slots with zero slop and no binding. UHMW ignores humidity; wood runners swell in summer. | 2 each | ☐ |
| Wood screws, #8 x 1-1/4" | 16 each | ☐ |
| Paste wax On the sled's underside. Makes it glide. | 2 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.