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A triangular corner hutch with mitered shelves, beadboard-lined sides, and a choice of inset or overlay doors.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back Measure your actual board width — it varies by mill run. | 1 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 72" | Pine 1x8 | ☐ |
| Shelves Both ends cut at 45°, the second cut perpendicular to the first and sized to your actual back-board width. | 6 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 30 1/2" | Pine 1x12 | ☐ |
| Front side trim | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 72" | Pine 1x3 | ☐ |
| Beadboard sides Measure for exact fit. | 2 | 1/4" × 16 1/4" × 72" | Beadboard | ☐ |
| Top and bottom trim Measure for exact fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 26 1/2" | Pine 1x4 | ☐ |
| Tabletop trim Measure for exact fit. | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 26 1/2" | Pine 1x2 | ☐ |
| Top moulding Measure to fit. | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 36" | Crown moulding | ☐ |
| Door frame stiles and rails Sized to your actual door openings — see the doors step. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 30" | Pine 1x3 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 6 ft | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x8, 6 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x4, 6 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Beadboard sheet, 1/4"–3/8" | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 3 each | ☐ |
| Pine, 1x2, 3 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Crown moulding, 36 in | 1 each | ☐ |
| Wood screws, 2" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 4 oz | ☐ |
| Hinges | 2 pair | ☐ |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Miter Saw, Tape Measure. Materials: Pine, 1x12, 6 ft
Measure the actual width of your 1x8 back board — it can run anywhere from 7" to 7-1/2" depending on the mill. Cut one end of a 1x12 shelf blank at 45°, then measure out your actual back-board width and make a second 45° cut perpendicular to the first. Repeat for all six shelves; cutting this way self-adjusts the cabinet to whatever back-board width you actually have.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Pine, 1x8, 6 ft, Wood glue
Mark the back board for all shelf locations — every shelf here is fixed, not adjustable. Predrill or pocket-hole each joint, apply glue, and attach the shelves to the back with 2" screws.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Pine, 1x3, 8 ft, Wood glue
Mark the front side trim 1/2" in from the back edge along its length, then mark all shelf locations from the previous step. Predrill and attach with 2" screws on the inside edge and 1-1/4" screws on the outer edge, two screws per shelf, with glue. This trim doesn't need to be perfect — the beadboard in the next step covers it.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Beadboard sheet, 1/4"–3/8", Wood glue
Measure the open spaces on the back sides and cut the beadboard to fit, aiming for a tight fit. Apply glue to the exposed shelf edges and attach the beadboard with 1-1/4" screws, keeping it flush to the back board — that seam is the one that will show most.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Pine, 1x4, 6 ft, Pine, 1x2, 3 ft
Measure and attach the top and bottom trim, and the tabletop trim.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: Crown moulding, 36 in
Measure the top of the cabinet and attach the crown moulding.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Beadboard sheet, 1/4"–3/8", Pine, 1x3, 8 ft, Hinges
Build an overlay door frame from 1x3s with a pocket hole jig or 3" fine screws, then attach beadboard to the back of the frame, sized to fit the opening in the shelf behind it. An inset door is also possible if you have a router or table saw, but the door must stay under 3/4" thick given the shelf depth behind it.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Hinges, Sandpaper, assorted grit
Add a center post between the two doors to close any gap. Hang the doors with hinges.
Sand every surface and finish.