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The whole cabinet self-corrects for lumber variation, and that's the first real skill in the build: measure the actual width of your 1x8 back board (it can genuinely run anywhere from 7" to 7-1/2" depending on the mill), then cut each 1x12 shelf's mitered corner to match that measured width rather than a number off a plan. Cut one end of the 1x12 at 45°, measure your actual 1x8 width, then make the second 45° cut perpendicular to the first — repeat that for all six shelves and every one self-adjusts to your real lumber.
Beadboard on the front sides is doing double duty structurally, not just visually: the source is explicit that the front trim placement doesn't need to be perfect, because the beadboard is strong enough to cover for it. That's worth knowing before agonizing over trim alignment that the next step is going to hide anyway.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 6 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x8, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Beadboard sheet, 1/4"–3/8" | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 3 ft | 1 each |
| Crown moulding, 36 in | 1 each |
| Wood screws, 2" | 1 box |
| Wood screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Hinges | 2 pair |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| BackPine 1x8Measure your actual board width — it varies by mill run. | 1 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 72" |
| ShelvesPine 1x12Both ends cut at 45°, the second cut perpendicular to the first and sized to your actual back-board width. | 6 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 30 1/2" |
| Front side trimPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 72" |
| Beadboard sidesBeadboardMeasure for exact fit. | 2 | 1/4" × 16 1/4" × 72" |
| Top and bottom trimPine 1x4Measure for exact fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 26 1/2" |
| Tabletop trimPine 1x2Measure for exact fit. | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 26 1/2" |
| Top mouldingCrown mouldingMeasure to fit. | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 36" |
| Door frame stiles and railsPine 1x3Sized to your actual door openings — see the doors step. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 30" |
Buy 11 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
1 board
4 boards
1 board
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Measure the actual width of your 1x8 back board — it can run anywhere from 7" to 7-1/2" depending on the mill. Cut one end of a 1x12 shelf blank at 45°, then measure out your actual back-board width and make a second 45° cut perpendicular to the first. Repeat for all six shelves; cutting this way self-adjusts the cabinet to whatever back-board width you actually have.
Mark the back board for all shelf locations — every shelf here is fixed, not adjustable. Predrill or pocket-hole each joint, apply glue, and attach the shelves to the back with 2" screws.
Mark the front side trim 1/2" in from the back edge along its length, then mark all shelf locations from the previous step. Predrill and attach with 2" screws on the inside edge and 1-1/4" screws on the outer edge, two screws per shelf, with glue. This trim doesn't need to be perfect — the beadboard in the next step covers it.
Measure the open spaces on the back sides and cut the beadboard to fit, aiming for a tight fit. Apply glue to the exposed shelf edges and attach the beadboard with 1-1/4" screws, keeping it flush to the back board — that seam is the one that will show most.
Measure and attach the top and bottom trim, and the tabletop trim.
Measure the top of the cabinet and attach the crown moulding.
Build an overlay door frame from 1x3s with a pocket hole jig or 3" fine screws, then attach beadboard to the back of the frame, sized to fit the opening in the shelf behind it. An inset door is also possible if you have a router or table saw, but the door must stay under 3/4" thick given the shelf depth behind it.
Add a center post between the two doors to close any gap. Hang the doors with hinges.
Sand every surface and finish.
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