Corner Cupboard

Measure the actual width of your 1x8 back board — it can run anywhere from 7" to 7-1/2" depending on the mill. Cut one end of a 1x12 shelf blank at 45°, then measure out your actual back-board width and make a second 45° cut perpendicular to the first. Repeat for all six shelves; cutting this way self-adjusts the cabinet to whatever back-board width you actually have.

Mark the back board for all shelf locations — every shelf here is fixed, not adjustable. Predrill or pocket-hole each joint, apply glue, and attach the shelves to the back with 2" screws.

Mark the front side trim 1/2" in from the back edge along its length, then mark all shelf locations from the previous step. Predrill and attach with 2" screws on the inside edge and 1-1/4" screws on the outer edge, two screws per shelf, with glue. This trim doesn't need to be perfect — the beadboard in the next step covers it.

Measure the open spaces on the back sides and cut the beadboard to fit, aiming for a tight fit. Apply glue to the exposed shelf edges and attach the beadboard with 1-1/4" screws, keeping it flush to the back board — that seam is the one that will show most.

Measure and attach the top and bottom trim, and the tabletop trim.

Measure the top of the cabinet and attach the crown moulding.

Build an overlay door frame from 1x3s with a pocket hole jig or 3" fine screws, then attach beadboard to the back of the frame, sized to fit the opening in the shelf behind it. An inset door is also possible if you have a router or table saw, but the door must stay under 3/4" thick given the shelf depth behind it.

Add a center post between the two doors to close any gap. Hang the doors with hinges.

Sand every surface and finish.