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Purchased turned legs are the design's whole visual identity, and they're also why this plan can't give you one fixed cut list — every leg style has a slightly different stretcher-block height and profile, so every board here gets cut to fit the actual legs and vanity top you buy, not a number off this page. Buy your legs, sink, and top first, then measure from those before cutting anything.
The back is left open by design, for easier access to plumbing — a solid plywood back is mentioned as an option, but the source's own build skips it on purpose. The bottom shelf is notched around the turned legs rather than boxed between them, which is what lets it slide fully back against the wall instead of stopping at the first obstruction.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Turned vanity legs, with bottom stretcher blockBuy first — every other measurement is taken from these. | 4 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Plywood, 3/4", half sheetLeg-end panel and bottom shelf. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 3/4", scrapOptional interior partitions. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Leg end trimPine 1x3Cut to fit your actual legs. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15" |
| Leg end panelPlywood | 1 | 3/4" × 19" × 15" |
| Face frame stilesPine 1x3Cut to fit your legs and vanity top. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 42" |
| Face frame railsPine 1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 14" |
| Bottom shelf trimPine 1x2Cut to fit distance between the legs' stretcher blocks. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" |
| Bottom shelf trim, front/backPine 1x2Cut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 42" |
| Bottom shelf panelPlywoodNotched to fit around the turned legs. | 1 | 3/4" × 15" × 42" |
| Interior partitionsPlywood scrapOptional; sized to your storage layout. | 2 | 3/4" × 15" × 30" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
3 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the two leg sets flush to the insides — one side sits against the wall, the other holds hardware such as toilet paper mounts. Building flush this way also makes mounting drawer slides easier later. Use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws throughout.
Build two identical face frames for the front and back using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach to the two leg-end assemblies. Build these to suit your specific sink size and location — measure your sink and vanity top before cutting, and leave generous clearance around the sink opening.
Finish the trim for the bottom shelf, matching it to the legs' stretcher-block height. If pocket holes won't bite well into your turned legs, place them on the outside face instead — fine for a painted finish, though a stained finish may call for insetting the trim slightly to hide this.
Cut the bottom shelf panel to a plain rectangle first, then notch out the corners with a jigsaw to fit around the turned legs. Drill 3/4" pocket holes around the underside and attach to the shelf trim with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. For a long vanity or a heavy top, a hidden center support under the shelf adds extra strength.
Add partitions to separate interior storage and support the center of the shelf above, sized to your own layout. Attach with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Sand every surface and finish. Add doors, drawers, or pullouts to fit the openings as desired before installing your sink and vanity top.
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