48" Turned Leg Vanity

Build the two leg sets flush to the insides — one side sits against the wall, the other holds hardware such as toilet paper mounts. Building flush this way also makes mounting drawer slides easier later. Use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws throughout.

Build two identical face frames for the front and back using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach to the two leg-end assemblies. Build these to suit your specific sink size and location — measure your sink and vanity top before cutting, and leave generous clearance around the sink opening.

Finish the trim for the bottom shelf, matching it to the legs' stretcher-block height. If pocket holes won't bite well into your turned legs, place them on the outside face instead — fine for a painted finish, though a stained finish may call for insetting the trim slightly to hide this.

Cut the bottom shelf panel to a plain rectangle first, then notch out the corners with a jigsaw to fit around the turned legs. Drill 3/4" pocket holes around the underside and attach to the shelf trim with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. For a long vanity or a heavy top, a hidden center support under the shelf adds extra strength.

Add partitions to separate interior storage and support the center of the shelf above, sized to your own layout. Attach with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Sand every surface and finish. Add doors, drawers, or pullouts to fit the openings as desired before installing your sink and vanity top.